Ford Taurus Interior Door
Panel Removal Guide
How to take off the interior door panels
of a 6th generation 2010 to 2014 Ford Taurus to upgrade the OEM speakers.
2013 Taurus Door Panel |
Pry Out Trim Piece |
Trim Panel Removed |
This
automotive maintenance tutorial was specifically written to assist
owners of the 6th generation (2010, 2011, 2012, 2013 & 2014) Ford
Taurus sedan in removing the interior door panels in order to
upgrade the OEM speakers, add soundproofing material, fix a faulty
electrical switch or replace a broken power window motor. Owners of other Ford, Lincoln and Mercury vehicles with similar door panels such as the Fiesta, Fusion, Focus, C-Max, Mustang, Escape, Transit Connect, Explorer, Edge, Expedition, Flex, MKS, MKZ, MKT, MKX, Navigator, Milan, Grand Marquis, Mariner and Mountaineer may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful. The tools needed to take off the door panels include a small flathead screwdriver, an 8mm socket, 10mm socket, 7mm socket, a 1/4" drive ratchet, a standard Phillips head screwdriver, a pair of needle nose pliers, and a standard sized flathead screwdriver or a panel removal tool. To remove the OEM door speakers, you'll need a Torx T20 star bit screwdriver. |
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Pry Off Wood Grain Trim |
Plastic Trim Bar Removed |
Pry Up Rear of Switch Panel |
The first step is
to pull back the chrome door opener handle and pry out the rectangular trim
piece behind it with a small flathead screwdriver. Set the trim piece aside in a safe place. Then move to the rear edge of the wood grain colored plastic trim bar near the top of the door panel and gently pry it out with the small flathead screwdriver. Continue gently pulling off the wood grain trim bar to disengage the friction fasteners. Set the trim bar aside in a safe place. |
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Lift Out Switch Panel |
Disconnect Power Plug |
Remove Phillips Rubber Bumper |
Pry out the rear
edge of the switch panel on the arm rest with the small flathead
screwdriver. Lift out the rear of the switch panel first and then pull out the plastic tab on the front edge. Press the release button on the electrical connector at the bottom of the switch panel and slide it straight out of the socket. Set the switch panel aside in a safe place. Move to the outer edge of the panel near the bottom and remove the screw attached to a rubber bumper piece by turning it counter clockwise with a Phillips head screwdriver. |
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Phillips Screw - Under Trim Bar |
Remove 8mm Screw - Top Inner |
8mm Screw Removed |
Move to the upper
outer section of the door panel and remove the Phillips head screw inside
the hole where the wood grain trim bar previously installed. Then move to the other side of where the wood grain trim bar was installed by the top inner section of the door panel just above the door pull handle and remove the screw with an 8mm socket and ratcheting wrench. |
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Remove 10mm Screw |
10mm Door Opener Handle Screw |
10mm Arm Rest Screw |
Remove the screw
behind the door opener handle by turning it counter clockwise with the 10mm
socket and ratcheting wrench.
Remove the screw in the arm rest below where the switch panel was installed by turning it counter clockwise with the 10mm socket and ratcheting wrench. Set the two screws aside on or near their respective trim panels. |
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Arm Rest Screw Removed |
Two 7mm Screws - Bottom |
Remove Bottom Edge Screws |
Move to the bottom edge of the door panel and remove the two small screws by turning them counter clockwise with the 7mm socket and ratcheting wrench. | ||
2nd 7mm Screw Removed |
Pry Off Sail Panel |
Sail Panel Removed |
Set the two 7mm
screws aside in a safe place. Move to the top inner section of the door panel and gently pry off the sail panel with the small flathead screwdriver. On some models the sail panel may contain a tweeter speaker with a power plug that will need to be disconnected. |
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7 Screws & 4 Trim Panels |
Insert Flathead Screwdriver |
Pull Out Pop Rivet Friction Fasteners |
At this point, you
should have removed 4 trim panels and 7 screws.
The list of screws that should have been removed are as follows: one 8mm, two 10mm, two Phillips head and two 7mm screws. Insert a large flathead screwdriver or an automotive panel removal tool in between the bottom edge of the door panel and the metal door frame. Firmly pull out the bottom edge of the door panel to release the plastic pop rivet friction fasteners. |
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Lift Door Panel Off Frame |
Tilt Away Top Door Panel |
Disconnect Power Plug |
Continue pulling
out the white plastic pop rivet friction fasteners all along the bottom edge
and both sides of the door panel. Lift the door panel up and off the door frame. Tilt the top of the door panel towards yourself and support the bottom edge with your thighs. Press the release button on the small power connector and slide it straight out of the socket. |
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Press Tab - Release Connector |
Door Opener Handle Cable |
Squeeze Together Two Prongs |
Press the release
button on the light grey plastic electrical connector and slide it straight
out of the socket. To release the door opener cable, first squeeze together the two prongs on the yellow plastic collar and pull the collar out of the mounting bracket. |
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Pull Out Yellow Plastic Collar |
Swing Out Cable |
Lift Metal Piece Out of Socket |
Swing the cable away from yourself and lift the metal cylinder at the end out of its socket. | ||
Plastic Door Panel Removed |
Metal Door Frame |
Remove Speaker Screws |
Set the plastic
door panel aside in a safe place. To replace the OEM door speaker, remove the four screws with a Torx T20 star bit screwdriver. |
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Torx T-20 Screwdriver |
Four Torx T20 Screws |
Pull Out OEM Speaker |
Set the four screws
aside in a safe place. Pull the old speaker out of the door panel and press the release tab to disconnect the power plug. According to Crutchfield, the aftermarket speakers that will fit in to the front doors are as follows: 5 1/4" (5.25"), 5"x7", 6"x8" and 4"x6". I'd recommend buying new speakers from Crutchfield since they usually include any necessary wiring adapters or mounting brackets. To get the best sound possible from your new speakers, apply some Dynamat Sound Deadener to the metal door frame. It will help reduce road noise and also prevent vibrations or rattles when you crank up the volume. |
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Disconnect Power Plug |
Replace Panel - Hold Near Frame |
Push In Power Plug |
To replace the door
panel, hold it near the door frame and tilt the top towards yourself while
supporting the bottom with your thighs. Push the light grey power plug in to its socket. |
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Replace Electrical Connector |
Pull Switch Panel Plug Out |
Lower Metal Bar In Socket |
Push the small
black and red plastic power plug straight in to its socket. Pull the small black plastic power plug for the switch panel through the hole in the arm rest. |
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Swing Cable Towards Bracket |
Push Yellow Collar In Bracket |
Re-Insert Door Lock Stalk |
Lower the metal
cylinder at the end of the door opener cable in to the socket. Swing the cable towards the door panel and push the yellow plastic collar in to the bracket. Hang the top of the plastic door panel on to the upper lip on the metal door frame. Be sure to re-insert the door lock stalk in to its corresponding hole near the outer edge of the door panel. |
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Line Up Peg & Pop Rivets |
Push In Friction Fasteners |
Replace 8mm Screw |
Line up the plastic
peg and pop rivet friction fasteners on the rear of the door panel.
Tap the door panel all along the bottom edge and two sides to push in the pop rivet friction fasteners. Replace the 8mm screw near the top inner area of the door panel that was hidden by the wood grain trim bar. Turn it clockwise with the 8mm socket and ratcheting wrench to tighten it. |
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Replace 10mm Screw |
Arm Rest - 10mm Screw |
Push In Switch Panel Plug |
Replace the 10mm
screw behind the door opener handle by turning it clockwise. Replace the 10mm screw in the arm rest below the switch panel by turning it clockwise. Push the power plug in to the socket at the bottom of the switch panel. |
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Insert Hook At Front End First |
Push Down Rear of Panel |
Replace 7mm Screws |
Insert the hook at
the front edge of the switch panel in to the arm rest first. Push down the rear edge of the switch panel to secure the friction fastener. |
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7mm Screws - Bottom Edge |
Replace Phillips Screw |
Screw Behind Trim Bar |
Replace the two
screws at the bottom edge of the door panel by turning them clockwise with
the 7mm socket and ratcheting wrench. Replace the Phillips head screw at the upper outer corner of the door panel under where the wood grain trim bar will be re-installed. |
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Replace Rubber Bumper Screw |
Line Up Wood Grain Trim Bar |
Insert Tab At Front Edge First |
Replace the rubber
bumper Phillips head screw near the outer middle edge of the door panel. Insert the tab at the front edge of the wood grain trim bar in to place first. |
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Line Up Friction Fasteners |
Push On Trim Bar |
Replace Trim Piece |
Gently push in the
friction fasteners on the rear of the wood grain trim bar to secure it in
place. Snap in the trim piece behind the door opener handle. |
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Door Opener Handle Trim |
Push On Sail Panel |
Door Panel Replaced |
Push the sail panel
back in to place at the top inner corner of the door panel.
(If your Taurus is equipped with tweeter speakers, be sure to reconnect the power plug.) Sit inside the vehicle, close the door, and check that the door opener handle, power door lock switch and power window switch still work properly. For more, please check out my other
Ford Taurus DIY Repair Guides. |
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