Owners of other General Motors vehicles such as the Buick Verano, Regal, LaCrosse, Cascada, Encore, Enclave, Envision, GMC Canyon, Sierra 1500, Terrain, Yukon, Denali, Savana, Spark, Sonic, Cruze, Malibu, Impala, Volt, Camaro, Corvette, SS, Trax, Equinox, Traverse, Tahoe, Suburban, Colorado, Silverado and Express may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful.

A few compatible replacement sets of new rear brake pads with their part numbers are as follows: Wagner QC883, Centric Parts 300.08830, Monroe CX883, TRW TPC1507, Akebono ASP883, Akebono ACT883, ACDelco 17D883CH, Dura International BP883 C, Wagner ZD1507, Bosch BC883, Raybestos PGD883C, Prime Choice SMK883 and Wagner QC1507.

The tools needed to complete this procedure include a floor jack, two jack stands, a lug nut wrench, a 14mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratcheting wrench, an 18mm wrench, a "C" or "F" clamp and a tube of high temperature synthetic brake parts lubricant grease.

Be sure to chock both sides of the front wheels to keep the SUV from moving.

Slightly loosen the 6 lug nuts by turning them counterclockwise with the tire iron.

Raise the rear of the vehicle and securely support it with at least two jack stands.

I prefer to work on one side of the car at a time to keep three wheels on ground for extra safety.

Spin off the six lug nuts and set them aside in a safe place.

Loosen the top caliper bolt by turning it clockwise (as seen from the outside of the vehicle) with the 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratcheting wrench.

Then loosen the lower 14mm caliper bolt by turning it clockwise (as seen from the outside of the SUV).

Rest the caliper on the suspension or suspend it from the spring with a bungee cord.

Pull the old inner and outer brake pads out of the bracket.

On this 2016 Acadia, the wear bars were situated at the top of the inner pad and at the bottom of the outer pad.

I recommend buying the Wagner ThermoQuiet QC883 rear brake pads since they have great reviews on Amazon. I also like how they don't require any backing plates, shims or disc brake quiet gel due the built in insulators.

If your new set of brake pads included replacement brake hardware, pull the old metal pad abutment or "anti-rattle" clips out of the top and bottom of the bracket.

Apply some brake caliper grease to the new pad abutment clips where they will come in contact with the bracket and the new pads.

Push the new pad abutment clips in to the top and bottom of the bracket.

In order for the caliper to operate smoothly, the two caliper slider pins need to be well lubricated.

Pull the two caliper slider pins out of their rubber dust boots, apply a thin layer of caliper grease and then push them back in to place.

Move to the right rear area of the engine bay and twist off the brake fluid reservoir cap in the counterclockwise direction.

Removing the reservoir cap will allow the brake fluid to more easily travel back through the lines when you compress the caliper pistons.

Repeatedly check the level in the reservoir to make sure that it doesn't over flow.

Clean up any spilled brake fluid immediately since it can easily damage the painted surfaces.

Try to avoid pinching or damaging the rubber dust boots that surround the caliper piston.

Replace the brake fluid reservoir cap as soon as possible since brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture) by twisting it on in the clockwise direction.

If your vehicle exhibits shuddering, pulsating, or vibrations during braking, you may need to have your rotors "turned" (resurfaced) or it may be easier to just replace them with brand new rotors. If this is the car's first front brake job and the rotors appear to be in excellent condition, you should be able to just replace the pads with great results.

To remove the existing rotors and install new ones, remove the Torx T30 (or "T-30") set screw and remove the two bolts on the rear of the caliper bracket that attach it to the steering knuckle. Then loosen the old rotor with a rubber mallet, pull it off, and slide the new one in its place.

Install the new inner and outer brake pads in to the bracket.

Make sure that the wear bars are situated in the correct position. The wear bars should be at the top of the inner brake and the bottom of the outer brake pad.

Carefully lower the rear caliper over the pads and in to the bracket.

If the caliper won't fit over the thicker new pads, you may need to compress back the piston a bit further.

Double check that the two caliper bolts are tight before moving on to the next steps.

It would be best to bleed the brake lines at this time in order to flush out the old fluid and replace it with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid. For more on this topic, check out my Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With An Assistant DIY Guide or alternatively the Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With A Power Bleeder Guide.

The brake fluid bleeder valve is covered by a rubber cap and is located near the upper caliper bolt.

Spin on the six lug nuts in the clockwise direction a few turns by hand to prevent them from becoming cross threaded.

Slightly tighten the 6 lug nuts in a "star" or "criss cross" pattern with the lug nut wrench.

Continue to progressively tighten the six lug nuts in a "criss cross" or "star" pattern to about 1/4 to 1/2 turn past hand tight.

Sit in the driver's seat of the vehicle and pump the brake pedal a few times to restore brake line pressure. Check the brake fluid in the reservoir and verify that it is at the proper level. If it is low, add some DOT 3 fluid.

To break in your new rear brake pads, just drive normally for the first several hundred miles while avoiding any hard or "panic" stops which may glaze over the new brake pads and cause them to be noisy and possibly not perform as well.

It's also a good idea to regularly check your driveway for drops of brake fluid which may indicate a leak, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir and also check that the lug nuts are still tight.

For more, check out my other 2007-2016 GMC Acadia DIY Repair & Maintenance Guides.