Hyundai
Sonata Rear Brake Pads Replacement Guide
How to replace the rear brake pads on a
2011, 2012, 2013 and 2014 Hyundai Sonata with picture illustrated DIY instructions.
Sonata Rear Wheel |
Loosen 5 Lug Nuts |
Raise Vehicle - Wheel Off |
This
automotive "how-to" guide was specifically written to assist owners
of the sixth generation (2011, 2012, 2013 & 2014) Hyundai Sonata in
replacing the rear brake pads. Owners of other Hyundai or Kia vehicles such as the Elantra, Accent, Veloster, Tucson, Santa Fe, Veracruz, Genesis, Forte, Optima, Rio, Soul, Sedona, Sorento, Tiburon and Sportage may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful. The tools needed to complete this rear brake job include a floor jack, jack stands, wheel chocks, a lug nut wrench, a 14mm socket with ratcheting wrench and a "C" or "F" clamp. A few of the compatible aftermarket rear brake pads for the Hyundai Sonata include the following with their respective part numbers: Wagner QC1445, Bosch BP1313, Wagner ZD1445 Akebono ACT1445, Raybestos PGD1445C, ACDelco 17D1445CH and Genuine Hyundai 58302-3QA10. |
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Brake Rotor & Caliper |
Remove Lower Caliper Bolt |
Loosen Upper Caliper Bolt |
The first few steps are to put the gear shifter
into "Park", ensure that the parking brake is not engaged, and chock
the front wheels to prevent the vehicle from moving. Use the lug nut wrench or "tire iron" to slightly loosen the 5 lug nuts on the rear wheel. Then raise the rear of the vehicle with the floor jack and securely support it with at least two jack stands. Spin off the five lug nuts, set them aside in a safe place and remove the rear wheel. |
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Remove Bolt - Clockwise |
Two 14mm Caliper Bolts |
Pull Off Rear Caliper |
The rear brake caliper is held on to the bracket
by two 14mm bolts located on the back side of the caliper.
Remove the two caliper bolts with a 14mm socket and ratcheting wrench by turning them clockwise as seen from the outside of the vehicle. |
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Rear Caliper Piston |
Rest Caliper On Suspension |
Pull Out Old Pads |
Once the two caliper bolts have been removed,
you can carefully pull the brake caliper off the rotor. Rest the caliper on
the rear suspension arm and try to avoid placing any stress on the rubber
brake lines. Pull the old brake pads out of the caliper bracket and make a mental note of how the wear or "squeal" is orientated. On this 2011 Hyundai Sonata, the wear bar was situated at the bottom of the inner brake pad. I recommend buying the Wagner ThermoQuiet QC1445 brake pads since they have excellent reviews on Amazon. I also like how they don't require any backing plates or shims due to the built in insulators. If your new brake pads didn't come equipped with wear bars, pull the old wear bar off the existing pads and attach it to the new pads. |
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Wear Bar - Bottom Inner |
Replace Anti-Rattle Clips |
Brake Parts Cleaner |
If your new set of rear brake pads came with metal anti-rattle clips, pull the old ones out of the caliper bracket and install the new ones in their place. Thoroughly clean off the rotor, caliper body, caliper piston and caliper bracket with some brake parts cleaner spray. To help prevent braking noise, apply some CRC Disc Brake Quiet gel or any other similar product to the rear of the brake pads where they come in contact with the caliper. (Do not apply anything to the friction surface of the new pads.) If your vehicle exhibits shuddering, pulsating, or vibrations during braking, you may need to have your rotors "turned" (resurfaced) or just replace them altogether with brand new rotors. If this is the car's first front brake job and the rotors appear to be in excellent condition, you should be able to just replace the pads with great results. |
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CRC Disc Brake Quiet |
"F" Clamp Compress Piston |
Remove Reservoir Cap |
In order for the
caliper to fit over the thicker new brake pads, the rear caliper's piston will need
to be compressed backwards with a "C" or
"F"
clamp. Remove the cap on the brake fluid reservoir in the engine bay by turning it counter-clockwise. Removing the reservoir cap will allow the brake fluid to more easily travel backwards through the lines when the piston is compressed. Attach the "F" clamp to the caliper using the back of an old brake pad to help evenly distribute the force across the piston. Very slowly compress the brake caliper piston until it rests flush with the rubber dust boot. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir repeatedly while compressing the piston to ensure that it does not overflow. Brake fluid is harmful to any painted surface. |
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Pull Out Caliper Slider Pin |
Check & Lubricate |
Lubricate Upper Pin |
Pull the brake caliper slider pins out of their
rubber dust boots to make sure that they are well lubricated.
If they appear dry, apply a generous amount of a high pressure / temperature brake caliper grease. Re-insert the well lubricated caliper pins into the bracket until their rubber dust boots pop back into place. |
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Insert New Brake Pads |
Wear Bar - Bottom Inner |
Push Pads Flush On Rotor |
Place the new rear brake pads into the caliper
bracket with the wear or "squeal" bar positioned at the bottom of the inner
pad.
Push the two brake pads towards each other until they rest flush against the rotor. |
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Lower Caliper On Rotor |
Insert Upper Caliper Bolt |
Replace Lower Caliper Bolt |
Lower the rear brake caliper down over the new
brake pads and on to the rotor.
If the caliper won't fit over the new brake pads, you may need to compress the piston back a bit further with the "C" clamp. Line up the holes in the caliper with the slider pins before inserting the two 14mm caliper bolts. Rotate the bolts a few turns by hand to prevent them from becoming cross threaded. |
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Tighten Caliper Bolt |
Torque Upper Caliper Bolt |
Brake Fluid Bleeder Valve |
Tighten
the two 14mm caliper bolts to just past hand tight or about 20-25 ft lbs of
torque.
Double check that both caliper bolts are snug before continuing on to the final steps. If your brake pedal previously felt mushy or spongy, the brake fluid may be contaminated with water or the brake lines may contain air bubbles. It would be best to bleed the brake lines at this time in order to flush out the old fluid and replace it with new DOT 3 brake fluid. For more on this topic, check out my Brake Line Fluid Bleeding DIY Guide. |
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Bleeder Valve Rubber Cap |
Replace Wheel & Lug Nuts |
Slightly Tighten Lug Nuts |
Replace the rear
wheel, spin on the five lug nuts a few turns by hand and tighten them a bit
more with the lug nut wrench. Lower the vehicle from the jack stands and floor jack until the rear tire holds enough of the vehicle's weight to prevent it from spinning. |
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Lower Vehicle |
Tighten Lug Nuts |
Replace Reservoir Cap |
Progressively
tighten the five lug nuts in a "star" or "criss cross" pattern to just past
hand tight. It would be best to use a torque wrench or an air gun with a
torque stick to tighten the lug nuts to about 80-100 ft lbs. Sit in the driver's seat of the vehicle and pump the brake pedal several times to restore the brake line pressure. Then check the brake fluid level in the reservoir and verify that it is at the "MAX" (maximum) line. If it is low, pour in some fresh DOT 3 fluid. Once the brake fluid level is correct, replace the brake fluid reservoir cap by twisting it on clockwise. To break in your new front brake pads, just drive normally for the first few hundred miles while trying to avoid any hard or "panic" stops which may glaze over the new brake pads and cause them to be noisy and/or not perform well. It's also a good idea to regularly examine your driveway for drops of brake fluid which may indicate a leak, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir, and also check that the lug nuts are still properly tightened. For more,
check out my
Hyundai Sonata Repair & Maintenance Guides page. |
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