Nissan Rogue
Rear Brake Pads Replacement Guide
How to change the rear disc brake pads on
a 1st generation 2008-2013 Nissan Rogue with photo illustrated steps.
2011 Rogue Rear Wheel |
Pull Off Wheel Cover |
5 Lug Nuts Exposed |
This
automotive "how-to" guide was specifically written to assist owners
of the 1st generation (2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, & 2013) Nissan
Rogue in replacing the rear disc brake pads and lubricating the
caliper slider pins. Owners of other Nissan or Infiniti vehicles such as the Versa, Cube, Sentra, Altima, LEAF, Maxima, Juke, Murano, Xterra, Pathfinder, Armada, Quest, Frontier, Titan, 370Z, G37, M37, EX37, FX37, JX35, and QX56 may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful. The tools needed to complete this rear brake job include a floor jack, jack stands, a tire iron, a 14mm socket with ratcheting wrench, a "C" or "F" clamp, brake parts lubricant, and a new set of rear brake pads. A few compatible aftermarket rear brake pads with their part numbers are as follows: Wagner ZD1288, Bosch BC905, Akebono ACT905, Wagner PD1288, ACDelco 17D1288CH, Raybestos ATD1288C, Monroe CX905A, Centric 301.09050, Bendix # D1288 CQ and Dura International BP905. |
||
|
||
Slightly Loosen Lug Nuts |
Raise Rear of Vehicle |
Spin Off Lug Nuts |
The first two steps
are to park the vehicle on a level surface and
chock the front wheels to
prevent the vehicle from moving. If equipped, pull off the plastic wheel cover or "hub cap" from the rear wheels and set them aside in a safe place. Slightly loosen the 5 lug nuts with the tire iron. Raise the rear of the vehicle with the floor jack and securely support it with the two jack stands. (I prefer to work on one side of the vehicle at a time to keep three wheels on the ground for extra safety.) Spin off the lug nuts and set them aside in a safe place. |
||
5 Lug Nuts Removed |
Rear Brake Caliper & Rotor |
Loosen Lower Caliper Bolt |
Pull off the rear wheel to expose the brake caliper, bracket and rotor. | ||
Remove Bolt / Pin |
Combination Bolt & Pin |
Upper Bolt - Brake Line |
The rear calipers
of a Rogue have one piece caliper bolts and caliper slider pins.
The upper caliper bolt is blocked by the rubber brake line. The easiest way to change the brake pads is to remove the lower caliper bolt/pin and swing the caliper upwards to unlock the upper pin. Remove the lower caliper bolt by turning it clockwise (as seen from the outside of the vehicle). Slide the lower bolt/pin straight out of the bracket and set it aside in a safe place. You may optionally choose to remove the upper caliper bolt/pin with a 14mm wrench. |
||
Swing Up Rear Caliper |
Pull Out Upper Slider Pin |
Rest Caliper On Suspension |
Swing the rear
caliper up and off the old pads. Once the caliper is raised up far enough,
you can slide the upper caliper bolt/pin straight out of the bracket. Carefully rest the caliper on the rear suspension arm. You may choose to secure it to the suspension spring with some twine or a bungee cord. |
||
Remove Outer Pad |
Wear Bar - Bottom Inner Pad |
Replace Anti-Rattle Clips |
Pull the two old
brake pads out of the bracket and make a mental note of where the wear
indicator or "squeal" bar is located. On this 2011 Rogue, the wear bar was situated at the bottom of the inner pad. I recommend buying the Akebono ACT905 rear brake pads since they have excellent reviews on Amazon. If your new set of front brake pads came with new metal pad abutment or "anti-rattle" clips, pull the old ones out of the top and bottom of the caliper bracket before installing the new ones. If your new pads do not have a new wear indicator bar, pry the old one off the old inner pad and install it on one of the new pads. |
||
Lubricate Upper Pin |
Lubricate Lower Caliper Pin |
Attach "F" Clamp With Pad |
In order for the
brake caliper to work properly, the smooth parts of the combination caliper
bolts and slider pins need to be well lubricated with some high temperature
brake caliper grease. In order for the caliper to fit over the thicker new brake pads, the piston will need to be compressed backwards a bit. Attach the "C" or "F" clamp over the caliper piston using the back of an old brake pad to evenly distribute the force. |
||
|
||
Twist Off Brake Fluid Cap |
Compress Caliper Piston |
Replace Brake Fluid Cap |
Move to the rear
right side of the engine bay (closest to the driver's seat) and twist off
the brake fluid reservoir cap by turning it counter clockwise. Removing the
cap will allow the brake fluid to more easily travel backwards through the
system when the caliper piston is pushed in. Very slowly compress the caliper piston with the "F" clamp until it is flush with the rubber dust boot. Make sure that the rubber dust boot does not become pinched and damaged. Repeatedly check the fluid level in the reservoir to ensure that it does not overflow. Clean up any spilled brake fluid immediately since it can easily damage painted surfaces. Replace the brake fluid cap as soon as you are done compressing the piston since brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture). Thoroughly clean off the brake rotor, caliper bracket, brake caliper assembly and the lug nut studs with brake parts cleaner spray. Do not use compressed air or blow with your mouth to clean off the brake parts since breathing in brake dust can be harmful to your health. Brake dust may be carcinogenic (causes cancer) if inhaled. If your vehicle exhibits shuddering, pulsating, or vibrations during braking, you may need to have your rotors "turned" (resurfaced) or it may be better to just install brand new rotors. If this is the car's first front brake job and the rotors appear to be in excellent condition, you should be able to just replace the pads with great results. To remove the existing rotors and install new ones, just remove the two bolts on the rear of the caliper bracket that attach it to the steering knuckle. Then loosen the old rotor with a rubber mallet, pull it off, and slide the new one in its place. |
||
Install New Outer Pad |
Wear Bar - Bottom Inner Pad |
Push Pads Against Rotor |
Apply a thin layer
of brake parts lubricant to any surface where there is metal to metal
contact such as the outer ring of the caliper piston and the backs of the
new pads.
Do not apply brake caliper grease to the friction surface of the pads or to the rotor. Install the new brake pads in to the caliper bracket with the wear bar situated at the bottom of the inner brake pad. Push the two brake pads flush against the rotor. |
||
Re-Insert Upper Caliper Pin |
Swing Caliper Closed |
Insert Lower Bolt/Pin |
Re-insert the upper
caliper pin in to the bracket, swing the caliper closed over the new brake
pads, and insert the lower caliper bolt/pin.
Thread in the lower caliper bolt a few turns by hand to prevent it from becoming cross threaded. If the caliper doesn't fit over the new pads, you may need to compress the piston back a bit further. |
||
Tighten Lower 14mm Bolt |
Tighten Upper 14mm Bolt |
Rubber Valve Cap |
Tighten the two
caliper bolts by turning them clockwise (as seen from the outside of the
vehicle) to just past hand tight or about 20-25 ft lbs of torque. Double check that both caliper bolts are tight before moving on to the next steps. |
||
Brake Fluid Bleeder Valve |
Replace Rear Wheel |
Spin On Five Lug Nuts |
If your brake pedal has been feeling soft or spongy, the brake fluid may be contaminated with moisture or the brake lines may contain a few air bubbles. It would be best to bleed the brake lines at this time in order to flush out the old fluid and replace it with fresh DOT3 brake fluid. For more on this topic, check out my Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With An Assistant DIY Guide or alternatively the Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With A Power Bleeder Guide. |
||
Slightly Tighten Lug Nuts |
Lower Vehicle From Jack |
Torque Lug Nuts |
Replace the rear
wheel and spin on the five lug nuts by hand to prevent them from becoming
cross threaded. Slightly tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern with the tire iron. Lower the vehicle from the jack stands using the floor jack until the rear tire holds enough weight to keep it from spinning. Progressively tighten the lug nuts in a "criss cross" or "star" pattern to about 1/4 to 1/3 turn past hand tight. It would be best to use either a torque wrench or an impact wrench with a torque stick to tighten the lug nuts to about 80-85 ft lbs of torque. |
||
Replace Plastic Hub Cap |
Tap Wheel Cover |
Rear Brake Job Complete |
Replace the plastic
wheel covers and firmly tap them in to place. Sit in the driver's seat and firmly pump the brake pedal a few times to restore the brake line pressure. Check the brake fluid in the engine bay reservoir and verify that it is at the proper level. If it is low, add some DOT 3 fluid. If it is above the "MAX" line, remove some with a turkey baster or just dip in a paper towel to absorb the excess fluid. To break in or "bed in" your new rear brake pads to the rotors, just drive normally for the first few hundred miles while trying to avoid any hard or "panic" stops which may glaze over the new pads and cause them to be noisy and/or not perform as well. It's also a good idea to regularly check your driveway or parking spot for drops of brake fluid which may indicate a leak, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir, and also verify that the lug nuts are still snug. For more,
check out my other
Nissan
Rogue Repair & Maintenance Guides. |
If you found this guide to be helpful,
please consider making a small donation by clicking on the PayPal.com
"Donate" button located to the right of this paragraph. Thank you!
(Note: I am not a registered charity. Donations are not tax deductible.) |
Copyright 2024 © PaulsTravelPictures.com
All Rights Reserved ®
Paul's Travel Pictures is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. |
Privacy Policy About Paul & Author Contact Info