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Dodge Charger Front Brake Pads Replacement Guide
How to change the front disc brake pads on a 7th generation 2011-2014 Dodge Charger with photo illustrated steps.

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2014 Charger Front Wheel
Slightly Loosen 5 Lug Nuts
Raise Front of Vehicle
This automotive maintenance tutorial was specifically written to assist owners of the seventh generation (2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 & possibly also the revised 2015) Dodge Charger sedan in changing the front disc brake pads and lubricating the caliper slider pins.

Owners of other Chrysler, Dodge and RAM vehicles such as the Town & Country, 300, 200, Avenger, Challenger, Journey, Dart, Durango, Grand Caravan, and Ram C/V Tradesman minivan may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful.

The tools needed to complete this procedure include a lug nut wrench, a floor jack, two jack stands, a 13mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratcheting wrench, a thin 18mm cone spanner wrench, a "C" or "F" clamp and a tube of synthetic brake parts lubricant grease.

A few compatible replacement sets of new front brake pads with their part numbers include the following: Raybestos ATD1056C or PGD1056C, Wagner ThermoQuiet QC1056, ACDelco 14D1056C or 14D1056CH, Centric 105.11490, Power Stop 16-1056, Akebono ACT1056, Bosch BC1056 and Monroe CX1058.


Please verify the correct replacement brake pad part numbers for your vehicle since they may vary depending on the model year, whether it has AWD (All Wheel Drive) or RWD (Rear Wheel Drive) and/or the trim level (SXT, R/T, SE).

I'd recommend calling your dealership's parts counter, consult with the manufacturer online application guides, call an auto parts store or use the Amazon Part Finder website.

Spin Off Lug Nuts
5 Lug Nuts Removed
Caliper, Bracket & Rotor
The first few steps are to park the vehicle on a level surface, engage the emergency / parking brake and chock both sides of the rear wheel to prevent the vehicle from moving.

Then slightly loosen the 5 lug nuts on the front wheel by turning them counterclockwise with the tire iron.

Raise the front of the vehicle with the floor jack and securely support it with the two jack stands.

I prefer to work on one side of the vehicle at a time to keep three wheels on the ground for extra safety.

Continue spinning off the 5 lug nuts in the counterclockwise direction and set them aside in a safe place.

Pull off the front wheel to reveal the caliper, bracket, rotor and suspension.

Front Brake Caliper
Loosen Upper 13mm Bolt
18mm Wrench Holding Pin
The front brake caliper is held in place to the bracket by two bolts on the back side facing towards the engine.

Loosen the upper caliper bolt by turning it clockwise (as seen from the outside of the vehicle) with the 13mm socket and 3/8" drive ratcheting wrench.

If the caliper slider pin rotates as you are trying to loosen the caliper bolt, hold it in place with a thin 18mm cone spanner wrench.

Then loosen the lower 13mm caliper bolt by rotating it clockwise (as seen from the outside of the vehicle).

Spin Out Lower Caliper Bolt
Remove Upper 13mm Bolt
Two 13mm Caliper Bolts
Spin out the two caliper bolts and set them aside in a safe place.
Pry Off Front Caliper
Remove Front Caliper
Rest Caliper On Suspension
You may need to use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry the caliper off the old pads.

Pull the caliper out of the bracket and carefully rest it on the suspension or suspend it from the spring with a bungee cord.

Wear Bar - Bottom Outer Pad
Wear Bar - Top Inner Pad
Replace Pad Abutment Clips
Pull the old outer and inner brake pads out of the bracket.

Make a mental note of where the wear indicator or "squeal" bars are situated on the old pads.

On this 2014 Charger, the wear bars were located at the bottom of the outer pad and at the top of the inner pad.

I'd recommend buying the Wagner ThermoQuiet QC1056 brake pads since they have the best reviews on Amazon and they don't require any backing plates, shims or disc brake quiet gel.

If your new set of front brake pads included replacement hardware, pull the old metal pad abutment or "anti-rattle" clips from the top and bottom of the bracket before installing the new ones in their place.

Pull Out Caliper Slider Pin
Lubricate & Replace Both Pins
Attach "C" Clamp To Piston
In order for the caliper to operate smoothly, the two caliper slider pins need to be well lubricated.

Pull the upper and lower caliper slider pins out of their rubber dust boots, apply a thin layer of brake parts lubricant grease to each before pushing them back in.

In order for the caliper to fit over the thicker new brake pads, the caliper piston needs to be compressed back.

Attach the "C" or "F" clamp to the caliper using the back of an old brake pad to evenly distribute the pressure across the piston.


Brake Fluid Access Door
Press Tab - Release Panel
Twist Off Brake Fluid Cap
Move to the right rear area of the engine bay (closest to the driver's seat) and open the brake fluid reservoir access panel.

Twist off the brake fluid reservoir cap in the counterclockwise direction.

Removing the reservoir cap will allow the brake fluid to more easily travel backwards through the line when you compress the piston.

Compress Back Caliper Piston
Replace Brake Fluid Cap
Push On Access Cover
Slowly turn the "C" or "F" clamp handle in the clockwise direction to push the piston back in to the caliper.

Continue compressing the piston until it is flush with the rubber dust boot surrounding it.

Try to avoid pinching or otherwise damaging the rubber dust boot.

Replace the reservoir cap as soon as possible by twisting it on the clockwise direction since brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture from the air).

Close the plastic brake fluid reservoir access panel.

Thoroughly clean off the brake rotor, caliper bracket, brake caliper assembly and the lug nut studs with brake parts cleaner spray. Do not use compressed air or blow with your mouth to clean off the brake parts since breathing in brake dust can be harmful to your health. Brake dust can be carcinogenic (cancer causing) if inhaled.

Apply a thin layer of brake parts lubricant to any area where there is metal to metal contact such as the outer lip of the caliper piston. Do not apply brake caliper grease to the friction surface of the new pads.

If your Charger previously exhibited shuddering, pulsating, or vibrations in the front end during braking, you may need to have your rotors "turned" (resurfaced) or just replace them with brand new rotors. If this is the first front brake job on your car and the rotors appear to be in excellent condition, you should be able to just replace the pads with great results.

To remove the existing rotors and install new ones, remove the two bolts on the rear of the caliper bracket that attach it to the steering knuckle. Then loosen the old rotor with a rubber mallet, pull it off, and slide the new one in its place.

Install New Outer Pad
Install New Inner Pad
Push Pads Against Rotor
Install the new outer brake pad in to the bracket with the wear bar situated at the bottom.

Install the new inner brake pad in to the bracket with the wear indicator bar situated at the top.

Push the two brake pads together until they are flush against the rotor.

Lower Caliper Over Pads
Spin In Lower Caliper Bolt
Replace Upper 13mm Bolt
Carefully lower the caliper over the new brake pads and in to the bracket.

If the caliper won't fit over the new pads, you may need to compress the piston back a bit further.

Line up the bolt holes in the caliper with their corresponding holes in the slider pins within the bracket.

Spin the two caliper bolts by hand a few turns in the counterclockwise direction (as seen from the outside of the vehicle) to prevent them from becoming cross threaded.

Tighten Counterclockwise
Torque To 44 ft-lbs
Rubber Valve Cap
Tighten the caliper bolts by rotating them counterclockwise (as seen from the outside of the vehicle) with the 13mm socket and ratcheting wrench to just past hand tight or about 44 ft-lbs of torque.

If the caliper slider pin starts to turn as you are attempting to tighten the caliper bolts, you can hold it in place with a thin 18mm cone spanner wrench.

Double check that both the upper and lower caliper bolts are tight before moving on to the next steps.

If your brake pedal previously felt soft or spongy, the brake fluid may be contaminated with water or the brake lines may contain some air bubbles.

It would be best to bleed the brake lines at this time in order to flush out the old fluid and replace it with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid. For more on this topic, check out my Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With An Assistant DIY Guide or alternatively the Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With A Power Bleeder Guide.

The brake fluid bleeder valve is located underneath a rubber cap on the back side of the caliper just below the upper caliper bolt.

Brake Fluid Bleeder Valve
Push On Front Wheel
Spin On 5 Caliper Bolts
Push on the front wheel and spin on the 5 lug nuts in the clockwise direction by hand to prevent them from becoming cross threaded.
Slightly Tighten Lug Nuts
Lower Vehicle From Stands
Torque To 110 ft-lbs
Slightly tighten the lug nuts in the clockwise direction in a "star" or "criss-cross" pattern with the tire iron.

Carefully lower the vehicle from the jack stands using the floor jack.

Continue progressively tightening the lug nuts in the "star" pattern to about 1/8 to 1/4 turn past hand tight or 110 ft-lbs of torque.

It would be best to use a torque wrench or an impact wrench with a torque stick to properly tighten the lug nuts.

Sit in the driver's seat of the vehicle and pump the brake pedal a few times to restore the brake line pressure. Check the brake fluid in the reservoir and verify that it is at the proper level. If it is low, add some new DOT 3 fluid.

To break in your new front brake pads, just drive normally for the first few hundred miles while trying to avoid any hard or "panic" stops which may glaze over the new pads and cause them to be noisy and/or not perform as well.

It's also a good idea to regularly check your driveway or garage for drops of brake fluid which may indicate a leak, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir, and also verify that the lug nuts are still tight.

For more, check out my other 2011-2014 Dodge Charger DIY Repair & Maintenance Guides.

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