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Mazda Mazda6 Rear Brake Pads Replacement Guide
How to change the rear disc brake pads on a 3rd generation 2014 to 2018 Mazda 6 including the part numbers.

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2016 Mazda 6 Rear Wheel
Electronic Parking Brake EPB
Slightly Loosen Lug Nuts
This automotive maintenance tutorial was specifically written to assist owners of the third generation (2014, 2015, 2016, 2017 and 2018) Mazda Mazda6 sedan in changing the rear disc brake pads and lubricating the caliper slider pins.

Owners of other Mazda vehicles such as the Mazda2, Mazda3, Mazda5, CX-3, CX-5, CX-7, CX-9, and the MX-5 Miata may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful.

The tools and other items needed to complete the procedure include a lug nut wrench, a floor jack, two jack stands, a 13mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet, a thin 17mm cone spanner wrench, a pair of needle nose pliers (or a Lisle # 28600 brake piston tool) and a tube of brake caliper grease.

A few compatible replacement sets of new rear brake pads with their part numbers are as follows: Wagner QC1679, TRW TPC1679, Power Stop Z23-1679 Z23, ProForce CRD1679, Beck Arnley 085-1960, Centric 105.16790, Raybestos EHT1679H and Monroe CX1679.

Raise Rear of Car
Remove Five Lug Nuts
Spin Off Counterclockwise
The first two steps are to park the car on a level surface and turn off the ignition.

Make sure that the electronic (or "electric") parking brake has been released. If the EPB hasn't been released, you won't be able to pull the rear caliper out of the bracket.

Step on the brake pedal and push down the EPB switch to release the parking brakes. Make sure the LED light on the switch is not turned on.

Attention - If your Mazda6 is equipped with the electronic parking brake or "EPB", you will need to place the EPB into "service" or "maintenance" mode before compressing the rear caliper pistons. If your Mazda6 has the EPB, you should NOT screw-in or rotate the rear caliper pistons. Vehicles with the EPB can have the rear pistons compressed straight in after the EPB has been placed in service mode.

To place the EPB into maintenance mode, here are the steps from the Mazda service manual as detailed on the Mazda247 forum.

1. Turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position but do not start the engine.
For vehicles with the push button start, tap the button once to enter ACC (accessory power) and then a second time to switch "ON" the vehicle but do not push the brake pedal so that you do NOT start the engine.
2. Release the electronic parking brake.
3. Press the accelerator (gas) pedal all the way down and press the EPB switch down to the "RELEASE" position.
4. Continue holding the accelerator down and the EPB switch down.
5. Turn the ignition switch to the "OFF" position.
6. Then the ignition switch back to the "ON" position within 5 seconds while still holding the accelerator down and the EPB switch in the "RELEASE" position.
7. You should see the yellow or orange "electric parking brake warning light" on the gauge cluster and "Park Brake Maintenace Mode" on the LCD screen.
8. Let go of the accelerator and the EPB switch.

To exit maintenance mode, follow the instructions near the bottom of this page.

These instructions are the same as for newer Ford vehicles which is not surprising since Ford and Mazda used to have a long running partnership.

Warning Proceed with caution and at your own risk!

Here's a tip from a fellow Mazda6 owner sent via Email from "P.R." Thank You!

The EPB can be disengaged manually by removing the T30 bolts on the EPB assembly, carefully separating the motor from the caliper and then use a Torx T40 turning clockwise to push the EPB back in.  Apply some grease to the EPB housing seal to make it easier to reassemble.  Iíve heard that sometimes the maintenance mode doesnít work.

Place wheel chocks on both sides of the front wheels to prevent the car from moving.

Slightly loosen the five lug nuts on the rear wheel by turning them counterclockwise with the tire iron.

Carefully raise the rear of the vehicle with the floor jack and securely support it with at least two jack stands.

I prefer to work on one side of the car at a time to keep three tires on the ground for extra safety.

Spin off the 5 lug nuts in the counterclockwise direction and set them aside in a safe place.

Pull off the rear wheel to reveal the caliper, bracket, rotor and suspension.

Caliper, Bracket & Rotor
Rear Brake Caliper
17mm Wrench - Slider Pin
The rear brake caliper is held in place to the bracket by two bolts located on the back side of the caliper. The two bolt heads face in towards the trunk of the car.

Loosen the lower caliper bolt by turning it clockwise (as seen from the outside of the vehicle) with the 13mm socket and a 3/8" drive ratchet.

If the caliper slider pin (or "guide bolt") spins as you are attempting to loosen the caliper bolt, hold it in place with a thin 17mm cone wrench (also known as a "spanner wrench" commonly used on bicycles).

Then loosen the upper 13mm caliper bolt by turning it clockwise (as seen from the outside of the car).

Loosen Two Caliper Bolts
Remove Upper Caliper Bolt
13mm Caliper Bolts Removed
Spin out the two caliper bolts and set them aside in a safe place.
Lift Caliper Out of Bracket
Rest On Suspension
Remove Old Brake Pads
Carefully pull the caliper out of the bracket and off the old brake pads.

Try to avoid bending, kinking, pulling or stressing the rubber brake fluid hose.

Rest the caliper on the suspension or suspend it from the spring with a bungee cord or some twine.

Remove the old brake pads from the caliper bracket and make a mental note of where the wear indicator bars or "squeal" bars are situated.

On this 2016 Mazda 6, the wear indicator bars were located at the top and bottom of both the inner and outer pads.

Wear Bars - Top & Bottom
Remove Caliper Slider Pins
Lubricate & Replace Pins
In order for the brake caliper to operate smoothly, the two caliper slider pins need to be well lubricated.

Important - The upper and lower caliper slider pins are different. Avoid mixing them up. I recommend lubricating and replacing one at a time.

Pull the caliper slider pins out of their rubber dust boots attached to the bracket.

Apply a thin layer of brake parts lubricant grease to the smooth parts of each slider pin.

Push the slider pins back in to their rubber dust boots and spin them around to help spread the grease.


Needle Nose Pliers
Lisle 28600 Tool
Install New Brake Pads

IMPORTANT - Mazda6 models equipped with the EPB (electronic parking brake) do not need to have the rear caliper pistons turned, screwed-in or rotated back. They can just be pushed / compressed in after placing the EPB into service mode. See the instructions near the top of the page for placing the EPB in service mode.

If your Mazda6 does not have an EPB, you can rotate / screw-in the rear caliper pistons as shown on this page.

Warning Proceed with caution and at your own risk!

Move to the right rear area of the engine bay (closest to the driver seat) and twist off the round black plastic brake fluid reservoir cap in the counterclockwise direction. Set the cap aside in a safe place. Removing the reservoir cap will allow the brake fluid to more easily track back through the lines when you compress the caliper pistons. Placing a rag over the reservoir is a good idea. (Credit "P.R. via Email - Thank you.)

The early model years of the 3rd generation Mazda 6 are equipped with "screw-in" type rear caliper pistons that can be turned back rather than pushed in with a "C" or "F" clamp like the traditional caliper pistons on the front of the vehicle.

You can use either a pair of needle nose pliers or a Lisle 28600 disc brake piston tool with a 3/8" drive ratchet to rotate back the caliper piston (for older models with the standard cable operating parking brake).

Attention: If your Mazda6 has the EPB (electronic parking brake) do NOT screw-in or rotate back the rear caliper pistons. Place the EPB in service mode and then compress back the pistons with an "F" clamp.

Slowly turn the caliper piston in the clockwise direction until it is just about flush with the rubber dust boot surrounding it.

I know I'm repeating myself, but it is very important that you understand that the procedure for Mazda vehicles with the old cable operated parking brake and the new EPB (electric parking brake) are different.

Screwing in the caliper piston on Mazda vehicles with the EPB may damage the electronic parking brake actuator.

Replace the reservoir cap as soon as possible by twisting it on in the clockwise direction. Brake fluid is hygroscopic so it readily absorbs moisture from the air which could lead to reduced braking performance.

Thoroughly clean off the brake rotor, caliper bracket, brake caliper assembly and the lug studs with brake parts cleaner spray. Do not use compressed air or blow with your mouth to clean off the brake parts since inhaling brake dust can be harmful to your health. Brake dust may be carcinogenic (cancer causing) if inhaled.

Apply a thin layer of brake parts lubricant to any area where there is metal to metal contact such as the outer lip of the caliper piston. Do not apply brake caliper grease to the friction surface of the new pads or the rotor.

 If your Mazda 6 previously exhibited shuddering, pulsations, or vibrations in the rear end during braking, you may need to have your rotors "turned" (resurfaced) or just replace them with brand new rotors. If this is the first rear brake job on your car and the rotors appear to be in excellent condition, you should be able to just replace the pads with great results.

To remove the existing rotors and install new ones, remove the two 17mm bolts on the rear of the caliper bracket that attach it to the steering knuckle. Then loosen the old rotor with a rubber mallet, pull it off, and slide the new one in its place.

Be sure to clean the wheel hub with a wire brush to remove any rust or debris. Credit to "P.R." via email. Thank you for the tip.

Push Pads Against Rotor
Lower Caliper Over Pads
Spin In Top Caliper Bolt
Install the new outer and inner brake pads in to the bracket.

Push the two pads together until they are flush against the rotor.

Carefully lower the caliper over the new pads and in to the bracket.

Line up the bolt holes in the caliper with their corresponding holes in the caliper slider pins within the bracket.

Re-Insert Bottom 13mm Bolt
Hold Pin With 17mm Wrench
Torque To 23-28 lb-ft
Spin in the two caliper bolts a few turns in the counterclockwise direction (as seen from the outside of the car) to help prevent them from becoming cross threaded.

Tighten the two top and bottom caliper bolts by turning them counterclockwise (as seen from the outside of the vehicle) with the 13mm socket and a 3/8" drive ratchet to just past hand tight or about 23 to 28 lb-ft of torque.

Double check that the two caliper bolts are tight before moving on to the next steps.

Rubber Valve Cap
Brake Fluid Bleeder Valve
Replace Rear Wheel

If your brake pedal has previously been feeling soft or spongy, the brake fluid may be contaminated with water or the brake lines may contain some air bubbles.

It would be best to bleed the brake lines at this time in order to flush out the old contaminated fluid and replace it with some fresh DOT 3 brake fluid.

For more on this topic, check out my Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With An Assistant DIY Guide or alternatively the Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With A Power Bleeder Guide.

The brake fluid bleeder valve is located underneath a rubber cap on the back side of the caliper just below the top caliper bolt.

Carefully replace the rear wheel.

Spin On 5 Lug Nuts
Slightly Tighten - Lower Car
Torque To 80-108 lb-ft
Spin on the five lug nuts a few turns by hand in the clockwise direction to prevent them from becoming cross threaded.

Slightly tighten the lug nuts with the lug nut wrench in the clockwise direction in a "star" or "criss cross" pattern.

Carefully lower the rear of the car from the jack stands by using the floor jack.

Continue progressively tightening the lug nuts in the clockwise direction in a "star" or "criss cross" pattern to about 1/4 to 1/3 turn past hand tight or about 80 to 108 lb-ft of torque (per the owner's manual specifications).

I usually tighten the lug nuts to somewhere in the middle of the range or about 85 to 95 lb-ft.

It would be best to use a torque wrench or an electric impact wrench with a torque stick to properly tighten the lug nuts.

If your Mazda6 has the EPB (electronic parking brake), follow these directions to exit the EPB maintenance / service mode:
1. Turn the ignition to "ON" but do not start the engine.
2. Press down the accelerator pedal all the way and pull up the EPB switch. Continue to hold them both in place.
3. Switch the ignition to "OFF".
4. Continue holding the accelerator pedal down and the EPB switch up.
5.Switch the ignition back to "ON" within 5 seconds.
6. You should see the orange / yellow parking brake warning light go off and the "Park Brake Maintenance Mode" message will disappear from the LCD screen.
7. Let go of the accelerator and the EPB switch.

You may choose to cycle the EPB on and off a few times to make sure it is working properly.

Be sure to remove the wheel chocks from the front tires and record the brake pad change in your car's service records.

I'd also recommend verifying that the lug nuts are still tight after your first trip and every few weeks.

For more, check out my other 2014-2018 Mazda Mazda6 DIY Repair & Maintenance Guides.

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