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Dodge Avenger Engine Spark Plugs Replacement Guide
How to change the engine spark plugs in the 2011-2014 Dodge Avenger with the 2.4 liter inline four cylinder motor.

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Avenger Dual VVT 2.4L I4
Pull Off Plastic Engine Cover
Ignition Coils Exposed
This automotive maintenance tutorial was specifically written to assist owners of the updated (2011, 2012, 2013 and 2014) Dodge Avenger sedan in checking or changing the spark plugs in the Chrysler GEMA 2.4L I4 World Engine.

Owners of other Chrysler Group vehicles equipped with the 2.4L I4 motor such as the Sebring, 200, Caliber, Journey, Jeep Compass and Patriot may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful.

The OEM spark plugs for an Avenger with the "PZEV" (Partial Zero Emissions Vehicle) version of the 2.4L I4 engine which includes extra emissions control systems are NGK Platinum # ZFR5AP (92041).

If you have the standard 2.4L I4 motor, the OEM spark plugs are NGK Nickel # ZFR5F-11.

A few other compatible spark plugs with their part numbers include the following:  NGK Platinum PZFR5F-11, NGK Iridium ZFR5FIX-11, Autolite Iridium XP5224, NGK Platinum ZFR5FGP, Denso 5303, NGK Iridium IZFR5G, Denso Platinum (3246) PKJ16CR-L11), Autolite Platinum AP5224, Champion Iridium RC12WMPB4 and Pulstar Iridium be1i.

Please verify the correct replacement parts for your Avenger by using the Amazon Part Finder website. The correct spark plugs may vary depending on the model year, trim level and engine type (2.4L I4 or 3.6L V6).

If you plan on keeping your Avenger for a long time, I'd recommend purchasing Platinum or Iridium tipped spark plugs that can easily last over 100,000 miles. The OEM Nickel tipped spark plugs for the non-PZEV 2.4L engine need to be replaced every 32,000 miles or every 24 months. The owner's manual specifies a much longer replacement interval of 104,000 miles or 78 months for the OEM Platinum tipped spark plugs.

The tools needed to complete this procedure include a Torx T-30 star bit screwdriver, a 5/8" spark plug socket, a 6" extension bar, a 3/8" drive ratcheting wrench, some dielectric grease, a spark plug gap gauge, 4 new spark plugs and (optional) anti-seize lubricant. (Most spark plug manufacturers recommend against using anti-seize lubricant since it can lead to over tightening.)

Spark Plug Ignition Coil
Press Release Button
Pull Off Power Plug
The first two steps are to pop open the hood and then gently pull off the plastic engine cover.

The engine cover is held in place by four rubber friction fasteners that attach to pegs on the top of the motor. Set the cover aside in a safe place.

If you have access to compressed air or a wet/dry shop vacuum, thoroughly clean off the top of the engine to help prevent from having debris fall in to the spark plug wells.

Press the release tab on the light grey electrical connector and slide it straight off the ignition coil.

Remove Ignition Coil Screw
Torx T30 Screw Removed
Rotate Ignition Coil
Remove the single screw on the ignition coil by turning it counter clockwise with a Torx T30 star bit screwdriver. Set the screw aside in a safe place.

I'd recommend that you check or replace one spark plug at a time to further reduce the risk of having something drop down in to the cylinder.

Gently rotate the ignition coil back and forth a few times to make sure that the rubber dust boot is not stuck to the top of the old spark plug.

Pull Out Ignition Coil
Spark Plug Well
5/8" Spark Plug Socket
Lift the ignition coil straight out of the spark plug well and set it aside in a safe place.

Attach the 5/8" spark plug socket to a 6" extension bar and a 3/8" drive ratcheting wrench.


Attach Socket To Old Plug
Detach Wrench - Spin Out
Lift Out Old Spark Plug
Lower the socket down in to the well and attach it to the old spark plug.

Carefully loosen the old spark plug by turning it in the counter clockwise direction.

If you can't loosen the old spark plug, do not use excessive force to avoid cracking the ceramic portion of the plug.

Spray a small amount of penetrating oil such as PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench or Kano Kroil and wait at least 15 minutes or more before attempting to loosen it again. If you don't have any penetrating oil, try spraying some WD-40 or warm up the engine for a few minutes to help expand the metal engine block.

Once the spark plug is loose, detach the ratcheting wrench and spin it out by hand using the extension bar.

Lift the old spark plug out of the well and pull it out of the socket.

If the rubber insert comes out of the spark plug socket, pull it off the end of the old spark plug and re-insert it in to the socket.

Inspect Old OEM Plug
Lower In New Spark Plug
Spin In New Plug By Hand
Inspect the old spark plug.

If the end of the old spark plug looks ashy white, the plugs may have been exposed to high temperatures such as overheating or they are the incorrect heat range for your driving conditions or environment.

On the other hand, if the old spark plugs are dark grey or covered in black soot, the engine may be burning oil and should be checked by a professional mechanic.

An optional step is to apply a tiny amount of anti-seize lubricant to the upper metal threads of the new spark plug. This will make the plugs easier to take out if they are not changed again for another 40k miles. Do not get any of the anti-seize on the electrode tip at the bottom of the new spark plug. Some spark plug manufacturers recommend that you not use anti-seize grease since it can lead to over tightening.

If you do apply anti-seize to the threads of the new spark plug, less force will be necessary to tighten them.

Check the gap on the new spark plug with the gap gauge. The NGK ZFR5AP Platinum tipped spark plugs should be pre-gapped at the factory to .031". The NGK ZFR5F-11 nickel tipped spark plug should be gapped to .043". If the gap is not correct, the new plug may have been dropped, damaged in shipment or defective and it should be exchanged for a new one.

Push the new spark plug in to the socket and gently lower it down in to the well. Your spark plug socket should have a rubber insert or a strong magnet to hold the plug securely in place.

Spin in the new plug by hand using the extension bar until it makes contact with the engine block.

Attach Wrench - Tighten Plug
Apply Dielectric Grease
Lower In Ignition Coil
Attach the ratcheting wrench to the extension bar and tighten the spark plug in the clockwise direction to just barely past the point when you feel the crush washer collapse.

Do not over tighten the spark plugs to prevent from cracking the ceramic body or stripping the aluminum threads.

Double check that the new spark plug is tight before moving on to the next steps.

Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the opening of the rubber dust boot at the bottom of the ignition coil. The dielectric grease will help keep out moisture and create a better electrical contact.

Lower the ignition coil down in to the well and over the new spark plug.

Rotate To Spread Grease
Re-Insert T30 Screw
Tighten Screw Clockwise
Rotate the ignition coil back and forth a few times to help spread the dielectric grease.

The dielectric grease will help keep out any moisture and create a better electrical contact.

Re-insert the Torx T-30 screw in to the ignition coil and tighten it in the clockwise direction until it is snug.

Try to avoid over tightening the screw to prevent from cracking the plastic ignition coil.

Push On Electrical Connector
Spark Plug Replaced
Push On Engine Cover
Push the power plug on to the ignition coil until it clicks securely in to place.

Line up the plastic engine cover and push it back in place over the motor.

Start up the engine and listen for any strange sounds that may indicate a problem such as a loose electrical connector or faulty plug.

Be sure to record the spark plug replacement in your vehicle's service records.

For more, check out my other Dodge Avenger Repair & Maintenance Guides.

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