Owners of other Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Volkswagen, Lancia, Fiat and RAM vehicles equipped with the Pentastar 3.6L V6 engine such as the Avenger, Grand Caravan, Journey, Town & Country, Routan, Wrangler, Grand Cherokee, Durango, Charger, Cherokee, Voyager, Thema, ProMaster, 200, 300, Freemont and 1500 may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful.

The items needed to complete this procedure include a floor jack, two jack stands, a 13mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratcheting wrench, a used oil catch basin, a 24mm socket with a 1/2" drive ratcheting wrench, an automotive funnel, a new oil filter and 6 quarts (or 5.6L) of new SAE 5W-20 oil.

The 2014, 2015 and most likely also the 2016 model years of the Challenger with the updated Pentastar 3.6L V6 engine require slightly different oil filters. Their part numbers are as follows: Mopar # 68191349AA (or "MO-349"), Fram CH11665, Wix # WL10010 and K&N PS-7026, Ecogard X10040, Hastings LF697, Motorcraft FL2066 and Pentius PCBT4024.

Warning: Using an oil filter intended for the 2011, 2012 & 2013 model years on a 2014 or 2015 Challenger may result in an oil leak. If you have a newer 2014, 2015 or 2016 Challenger, please buy one of the compatible filters listed above.

Warming up the engine will help suspend any contaminants within the old oil and also allow it to drain out more quickly.

Engage the emergency / parking brake and chock both sides of the rear wheels with blocks to prevent the car from moving.

Then twist off the oil filler cap in the counter clockwise direction and pull up the yellow handled engine oil level dipstick an inch or two. Removing the filler cap and lifting up the dipstick will help prevent a vacuum from forming and allow the old oil to drain out more quickly.

Update - The service manual recommends that you loosen or remove the oil filter cap before draining the oil to allow the old oil from the oil filter cavity to drain down to the sump. If you don't loosen or remove the oil filter cap before draining the old oil, all of the old oil will not be removed from the engine. Use a 24mm socket and 1/2" drive ratcheting wrench to loosen the oil filter cap in the counterclockwise direction.

Raise the front of the vehicle with a floor jack and securely support it with two jack stands.

I made the mistake of raising the front passenger side of the car when the oil drain bolt is on the driver side of the engine bay.

Slide under the engine bay with the 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratcheting wrench.

Loosen the four 10mm bolts holding the black plastic under engine cover (A.K.A. "splash guard" or "skid plate") by turning them counterclockwise.

Spin out the four bolts and set them aside in a safe place.

The oil drain bolt is located on the driver side of the metal oil pan with the bolt head facing towards the front wheel.

Slide the used oil catch basin to just below the drain bolt.

Be careful when you remove the drain bolt since the old oil can be hot enough to burn your skin depending on how long you warmed up the engine in the first step.

Allow the old oil to drain out for at least a few minutes or until the flow slows to an occasional drip.

If the oil drain bolt is equipped with a crush washer, inspect it and replace it if necessary. New crush washers can be purchased at your Dodge or Chrysler dealership's parts counter.

Re-insert the drain bolt and spin it in a few turns by hand to prevent it from becoming cross threaded.

Tighten the drain bolt by turning it clockwise with the 13mm socket and ratcheting wrench to just past hand tight or about 20 ft lbs of torque. Do not over tighten the drain bolt to avoid damaging the aluminum threads which could cause an oil leak.

Double check that the oil drain bolt is tight before moving on to the next steps.

Tighten the 10mm bolts with the ratcheting wrench until they are snug.

If you haven't already, remove the used oil catch container or any tools from underneath the car.

The round black plastic oil filter cap is located near the front middle area of the engine.

I'd recommend pulling off the plastic engine cover for easier access to the filter housing.

Set the engine cover aside in a safe place.

Place the 24mm socket over the plastic hex head on the top of the oil filter cap.

Loosen the oil filter cap by turning it counterclockwise until it can be removed.

Lift the cap and old oil filter out of the housing.

Apply a small amount of new SAE 5W-20 oil to the new rubber o-ring included with your new oil filter.

Lubricating the rubber o-ring will help the filter cap form a better seal, help prevent oil leaks and also make it easier to remove the cap during the next oil change.

Pull the old filter out of the cap and push in the new cartridge filter until it clicks securely in to place.

Lower the filter and cap back down in to the housing.

Spin in the filter cap a few turns in the clockwise direction by hand to prevent it from becoming cross threaded.

Tighten the filter cap with the 24mm socket and 1/2" drive ratcheting wrench to just past hand tight.

Double check that the filter cap is tight before moving on to the next step.

Insert the automotive funnel in to the oil filler hole.

The engine's total capacity for an oil change with filter replacement is 6 U.S. quarts (or 5.6 liters).

It is far better to have slightly less oil than necessary in an engine than too much.

Temporarily replace the oil filler cap and push down the dipstick.

Run the engine for a few minutes, turn it off, and allow the oil to drain back down to the oil pan for at least 5 to 10 minutes.

You might not need to pour in all 6 quarts of the engine's total capacity depending on how long you allowed the old oil to drain out.

Twist on the oil filler cap in the clockwise direction to just past hand tight and replace the oil level dipstick.

Push on the plastic engine cover.

Be sure to record the oil change in your service records. It's also a good idea to check your driveway or garage during the next few days for drops of oil that may indicate a leak from the drain bolt or filter housing.

To reset the "change oil" notification, follow these steps: 1. Turn the ignition switch to the "On/Run" position but do not start the engine. 2. Fully press down the gas pedal slowly three times within ten seconds. 3. Turn the ignition switch to the "Off" position.

If your Challenger has the Keyless "Enter-N-Go" (or "Passive Entry") system, follow these steps to reset the oil life:
1. Without pressing the brake pedal, push the "Start/Stop" button once to set the ignition to "On/Run" but do not start the engine. 2. Push and release the "Down" arrow button to scroll through the menu to "Vehicle Info". 3. Push and release the "Right" arrow to access the "Oil Life" screen. 4. Push and hold the "Right" arrow for at least one second to access the "Oil Life Reset" screen. 5. Push and hold the "Down" arrow button until the screen displays 100% oil life.

For more, check out my other 2008-2015 Dodge Challenger DIY Repair & Maintenance Guides.