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Ford Fiesta Front Brake Pads Replacement Guide
How to change the front disc brake pads on a 6th generation 2009-2015 Ford Fiesta with photo illustrated DIY steps.

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2013 Fiesta Front Wheel
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Loosen Lug Nuts Counterclockwise
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Raise Front of Vehicle
This automotive maintenance tutorial was specifically written to assist owners of the sixth generation (2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015 and possibly also the 2016 model year) Ford Fiesta sedan or hatchback in changing the front disc brake pads and lubricating the caliper slider pins.

Owners of other Ford or Lincoln vehicles such as the Focus, Fusion, C-Max, Mustang, Escape, Transit Connect, Edge, Flex, Explorer, Expedition, Taurus, F-150, EcoSport, MKC, MKZ, MKS, MKX, MKT and the Navigator may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful.

The tools needed to complete this procedure include a lug nut wrench, a floor jack, two jack stands, a 12mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratcheting wrench, a "C" or "F" clamp and a tube of synthetic brake parts lubricant grease.

A few compatible replacement sets of new front brake pads with their part numbers include the following: Raybestos PGD1454C, Motorcraft BR1454B, Wagner QC1454, ACDelco 17D1454CH, Centric 105.14540, Dura International BP1454 MS, Monroe CX1454 and Bosch BC1454.



 

Please verify the correct replacement parts for your Fiesta by checking the Amazon Part Finder website. The correct brake pads may vary depending on the model year, body style and/or trim level. For example, the high performance "ST" trim level uses different front brake pads.
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Spin Off Lug Nuts
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4 Lug Nuts Removed
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Caliper, Bracket, Rotor
The first two steps are to park the vehicle on a level surface and turn off the engine.

Engage the emergency / parking brake and chock both sides of the rear wheels to prevent the car from moving.

Slightly loosen the 4 lug nuts on the front wheel by turning them counterclockwise with the tire iron.

Raise the front of the car with the floor jack and securely support it with the two jack stands.

I prefer to work on one side of the vehicle at a time to keep three wheels on the ground for extra safety.

Spin off the 4 lug nuts and set them aside in a safe place.

Pull off the front wheel to reveal the caliper, bracket, rotor and suspension.

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Front Brake Caliper
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Loosen 12mm Clockwise
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Loosen Upper 12mm Bolt
The front brake caliper is held in place to the bracket by two bolts located on the back side of the caliper with the bolt heads facing in towards the engine.

Loosen the upper caliper bolt by turning it clockwise (as seen from the outside of the car) with the 12mm socket and 3/8" drive ratcheting wrench.

Then loosen the lower 12mm caliper bolt by turning it clockwise (as seen from the outside of the vehicle).

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Spin Out Lower Caliper Bolt
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Remove Top 12mm Bolt
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Two 12mm Caliper Bolts
Spin out the two caliper bolts by hand and set them aside in a safe place.
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Pull Off Brake Caliper
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Rest Caliper On Suspension
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Remove Old Outer Pad
Carefully pull the brake caliper out of the bracket and off the old pads.

Rest the caliper on the suspension or suspend it from the spring with a bungee cord.

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Outer Pad Removed
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Remove Old Inner Pad
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Replace Pad Abutment Clips
Pull the old inner and outer brake pads out of the bracket.

I always buy the Wagner ThermoQuiet QC1454 brake pads since I've had great experiences with them. I also like how they have the built in insulators so you don't need backing plates, shims or disc brake quiet gel.

If your new set of pads included replacement brake hardware, pull the old metal pad abutment or "anti-rattle" clips out of the top and bottom of the bracket before installing the new ones in their place.

Apply a thin layer of brake parts lubricant grease to the new pad abutment clips.

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Pull Out Caliper Slider Pin
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Lubricate & Replace Pins
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Attach "C" Clamp To Piston
In order for the brake caliper to operate smoothly, the two caliper slider pins or "guide pins" need to be well lubricated.

Pull the caliper slider pins out of their rubber dust boots attached to the bracket.

Apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease to each of the slider pins before pushing them back in to their dust boots.

In order for the caliper to fit over the thicker new brake pads, you'll need to compress back the piston.

Attach the "C" or "F" clamp to the caliper using the back of an old brake pad to evenly distribute the pressure across the piston.



 

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Brake Fluid Reservoir
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Twist Off Brake Fluid Cap
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Compress Caliper Piston
Move to the right rear area of the engine bay (close to the driver's seat) and twist off the brake fluid reservoir cap in the counterclockwise direction.

Removing the reservoir cap will allow the brake fluid to more easily travel back through the lines when you compress the piston.

Slowly turn the "C" or "F" clamp handle in the clockwise direction to push back the piston.

Repeatedly check the level in the brake fluid reservoir while you are compressing the piston to prevent from having it over flow.

Clean up any spilled brake fluid immediately since brake fluid can easily damage painted surfaces.

Continue compressing the piston until it is flush with the rubber dust boot surrounding it.

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Replace Brake Fluid Cap
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Install New Outer Pad
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Install New Inner Pad
Be sure to replace the brake fluid cap as soon as possible by twisting it on the clockwise direction.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture from the air), so don't leave the reservoir cap off for any longer than necessary.

Thoroughly clean off the brake rotor, caliper bracket, brake caliper assembly and the lug nut studs with brake parts cleaner spray. Do not use compressed air or blow with your mouth to clean off the brake parts since breathing in brake dust can be harmful to your health. Brake dust can be carcinogenic (cancer causing) if inhaled.

Apply a thin layer of brake parts lube to any area where there is metal to metal contact such as the outer lip of the caliper piston. Do not apply caliper grease to the friction surface of the new pads.

If your Fiesta previously exhibited shuddering, pulsations, or vibrations in the front end during braking, you may need to have your rotors "turned" (resurfaced) or just replace them with brand new rotors. If this is the first front brake job on your car and the rotors appear to be in excellent condition, you should be able to just replace the pads with great results.

To remove the existing rotors and install new ones, remove the two bolts on the rear of the caliper bracket that attach it to the steering knuckle. Then loosen the old rotor with a rubber mallet, pull it off, and slide the new one in its place.

Install the new inner and outer brake pads in to the bracket.

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Push Pads Against Rotor
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Lower Caliper Over Pads
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Spin In Lower Caliper Bolt
Push the two pads together until they are flush against the rotor.

Carefully lower the caliper over the new pads and in to the bracket.

Line up the bolt holes in the caliper with their corresponding holes in the slider pins within the bracket.

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Spin In Top Caliper Bolt
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Hold Pin In Place With Pliers
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Tighten Upper 12mm Bolt
Spin in the two caliper bolts by hand a few turns in the counterclockwise direction (as seen from the outside of the vehicle).

Tighten the caliper bolts by turning them in the counterclockwise direction (as seen from the outside of the car) with the 12mm socket and 3/8" drive ratcheting wrench to just past hand tight or about 21 lb-ft of torque.

If the caliper slider pin moves as you are trying to tighten the caliper bolt, hold it in place with a wrench or a pair of pliers.

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Torque To 21 lb-ft
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Rubber Valve Cap
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Brake Fluid Bleeder Valve
If your brake pedal previously felt soft or spongy, the brake fluid may be contaminated with water or the brake lines may contain some air bubbles.

It would be best to bleed the brake lines at this time in order to flush out the old fluid and replace it with fresh DOT 4 brake fluid. For more on this topic, check out my Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With An Assistant DIY Guide or alternatively the Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With A Power Bleeder Guide.

The brake fluid bleeder valve is located underneath a rubber cap on the back side of the caliper just below the top caliper bolt.

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Push On Front Wheel
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Spin On 4 Lug Nuts
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Slightly Tighten Lug Nuts
Replace the front wheel and spin on the four lug nuts in the clockwise direction by hand to prevent from having them become cross threaded.

Slightly tighten the lug nuts with the tire iron.

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Lower Car From Stands
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Torque To 100 lb-ft
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Front Brake Pads Replaced
Use the floor jack to carefully lower the car from the jack stands.

Continue tightening the lug nuts in the clockwise direction to about 1/4 to 1/3 turn past hand tight.

It would be best to use a torque wrench to make sure that the lug nuts are properly tightened. The Fiesta owner's manual specifies that the lug nuts should be tightened to about 100 lb-ft of torque.

Sit in the driver's seat of the vehicle and pump the brake pedal a few times to restore the brake line pressure. Check the brake fluid in the reservoir and verify that it is at the proper level. If it is low, add some DOT 4 fluid.

To break in your new front brake pads, just drive normally for the first few hundred miles while trying to avoid any hard or "panic" stops which may glaze over the new pads and cause them to be noisy and/or not perform as well.

It's also a good idea to regularly check your driveway or garage for drops of brake fluid which may indicate a leak, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir, and also verify that the lug nuts are still tight.

For more, check out my other 2009-2015 Ford Fiesta DIY Repair & Maintenance Guides.
 

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