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Honda Odyssey Front Brake Pads Replacement Guide
How to change the front disc brake pads on a 3rd generation 2005-2010 Honda Odyssey including part numbers.

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2008 Odyssey Front Wheel
Slightly Loosen Lug Nuts
Raise Front of Vehicle
This automotive maintenance tutorial was specifically written to assist owners of the third generation (2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009 & 2010) Honda Odyssey minivan in changing the front disc brake pads and lubricating the caliper slider pins.

Owners of other Honda or Acura vehicles such as the Accord, Civic, Crosstour, CR-V, CR-Z, HR-V, Fit, Element, Insight, Pilot, Ridgeline, Clarity, Crosstour, Elysion, ILX, TSX, TLX, TL, RLX, RDX, NSX and MDX may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful.

A few compatible replacement sets of new front brake pads with their part numbers include the following: Wagner QC1089, Akebono ACT1089, Bosch BC1089, Monroe GX1089, ACDelco 17D1089CH, Centric 105.1089 and genuine OEM Honda 43022-SHJ-X00.

The tools and other items needed to complete this procedure include a floor jack, two jack stands, a lug nut wrench, a 14mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet, an "F" clamp and a tube of brake caliper grease.

Spin Off Five Lug Nuts
5 Lug Nuts Removed
Remove Front Wheel
The first two steps are to park the minivan on a level surface and turn off the ignition.

Then engage the emergency / parking brake and place wheel chocks on both sides of the rear tires to prevent the vehicle from moving.

Slightly loosen the five lug nuts on the front wheel by turning them about 1/4 turn in the counterclockwise direction with the tire iron.

Raise the front of the vehicle with the floor jack and securely support it with at least two jack stands.

I prefer to work on one side of the car at a time to keep three tires on the ground for extra safety.

Spin off the five lug nuts and set them aside in a safe place.

Carefully remove the front wheel to reveal the caliper, bracket, rotor and suspension.

Set the front wheel aside in a safe place. Some people choose to place the wheel under the frame rail as an emergency backup support just in case the floor jacks fail.

Caliper, Bracket & Rotor
Loosen Top Caliper Bolt
Loosen Bottom Caliper Bolt
The front brake caliper is held in place to the bracket by two bolts located on the back side of the caliper with the bolt heads facing in towards the engine bay.

Loosen the top caliper bolt by turning it in the clockwise direction (as seen from the outside of the vehicle) with the 14mm socket and a 3/8" drive ratchet.

Then loosen the bottom 14mm caliper bolt by turning it in the clockwise direction (as seen from the outside of the car).

Spin Out Upper Bolt
Spin Out Lower Bolt
Two Caliper Bolts Removed
Spin out the two caliper bolts and set them aside in a safe place.
Pull Off Brake Caliper
Rest Caliper On Rotor
Wear Bar - Old Inner Pad
Carefully pull the brake caliper out of the bracket and off the old pads.

Rest the caliper on top of the rotor or suspend it from the suspension spring with a bungee cord or some twine.

Try to avoid stressing, kinking or pulling on the rubber brake fluid hose.

Pull the old inner and outer brake pads out of the bracket.

Make a mental note of where the wear indicator or "squeal" bar is located on the old pads.

On this 2008 Odyssey, the wear indicator bar was situated at the top of the inner pad.

Remove Old Outer Pad
Replace Pad Abutment Clips
Remove Caliper Slider Pins
If your set of new pads includes replacement brake hardware, pull the old pad abutment or "anti-rattle" clips out of the top and bottom of the bracket.

Apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease to the areas on the new pad abutment clips where they will come in contact with the bracket or the ends of the new pads.

Push the new pad abutment clips into place at the top and bottom of the bracket.

In order for the caliper to operate smoothly, the two caliper slider pins or "guide bolts" need to be well lubricated.

Pull the caliper slider pins out of the their rubber dust boots attached to the bracket.

Avoid switching the upper and lower caliper slider pins. On some Honda / Acura models, the top and bottom pins are slightly different.

Lubricate & Replace Pins
Attach "F" Clamp
Brake Fluid Reservoir
Apply a thin layer of brake parts lubricant grease to the smooth part of each pin.

Push the two caliper slider pins back into their rubber dust boots on the bracket.

Attach the "F" clamp to the caliper and use the back of an old brake pad to evenly distribute the pressure across the two pistons.

Move to the right rear area of the engine bay (close to the driver's seat) and twist off the brake fluid reservoir cap in the counterclockwise direction.


Twist Off Reservoir Cap
Compress Caliper Pistons
Replace Brake Fluid Cap
Removing the reservoir cap will allow the brake fluid to more easily travel back through the system when you retract back the two pistons.

Slowly turn the "F" clamp handle in the clockwise direction to compress back the two caliper pistons.

You may need to reposition the "F" clamp to fully compress both pistons.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture from the air), so be sure to replace the reservoir cap as soon as possibly by twisting it on in the clockwise direction.

Thoroughly clean off the brake rotor, caliper bracket, brake caliper assembly and the lug studs with brake parts cleaner spray. Do not use compressed air or blow with your mouth to clean off the brake parts since inhaling brake dust can be harmful to your health. Brake dust may be carcinogenic (causes cancer) if inhaled.

Apply a thin layer of brake parts lubricant grease to any area where there is metal to metal contact such as the outer lip of the caliper piston. Do not apply brake caliper grease to the friction surface of the new pads or the rotor.

 If your Odyssey previously exhibited shuddering, pulsations, or vibrations in the front end during braking, you may need to have your rotors "turned" (resurfaced) or just replace them with brand new rotors. If this is the first front brake job on your minivan and the rotors appear to be in excellent condition, you should be able to just replace the pads with great results.

To remove the existing rotors and install new ones, remove the two Phillips head set screws on the front of the rotor, remove the two 19mm bolts on the rear of the caliper bracket that attach it to the steering knuckle. Then loosen the old rotor with a rubber mallet, pull it off, and slide the new one in its place. Replace the two Phillips head set screws and the bracket bolts.

The service manual specification for tightening the 19mm caliper bracket bolts is 101 lb-ft of torque.

Install New Outer Pad
Wear Bar - Top Inner Pad
Push Pads Against Rotor
I recommend buying the Wagner QC1089 "ThermoQuiet" front brake pads since they have excellent reviews on Amazon.

Insert the new brake pads into the bracket with the wear indicator bar situated at the top of the inner pad.

Push the two pads together until they are flush against the rotor.

Lower Caliper Into Bracket
Spin In Top Caliper Bolt
Spin In Bottom Bolt
Carefully lower the caliper over the new pads and into the bracket.

Line up the bolt holes in the caliper with their corresponding holes in the caliper slider pins within the bracket.

Spin in the two caliper bolts a few turns by hand in the counterclockwise direction (as seen from the outside of the vehicle) to prevent them from becoming cross threaded.

Tighten Counterclockwise
Tighten Lower Bolt
Brake Fluid Bleeder Valve
Tighten the two caliper bolts in the counterclockwise direction (as seen from the outside of the minivan) with the 14mm socket and a 3/8" drive ratchet to just past hand tight or about 37 lb-ft of torque.

Double check that the two caliper bolts are tight before moving on to the next steps.

The brake fluid bleeder valve is located just below the top caliper bolt. (The rubber valve cap was missing on our car.)

If your brake pedal has been feeling soft or spongy, the brake fluid might be contaminated with water or the brake lines may contain some air bubbles.

It would be best to bleed the brake lines at this time in order to flush out the old fluid and replace it with fresh DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid. For more on this topic, check out my Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With An Assistant DIY Guide or alternatively the Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With A Power Bleeder Guide.

Slightly Tighten Lug Nuts
Lower From Jack Stands
Tighten 94 lb-ft Torque
Push the front wheel back into place.

Spin on the five lug nuts in the clockwise direction. Slightly tighten the lug nuts with the tire iron in a crisscross or "star" pattern.

Carefully lower the vehicle from the jack stands by using the floor jack.

Continue tightening the lug nuts in the clockwise direction in a "star" or "crisscross" pattern to about 1/4 to 1/3 turn past hand tight or about 94 ft-lbs of torque.

It would be best to use a torque wrench or an impact wrench with a torque stick to properly tighten the lug nuts.

Sit in the driver's seat of the car and firmly press down the brake pedal a few times to restore the brake line pressure. Check the brake fluid in the reservoir and verify that it is at the proper level. If it is low, add some fresh DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid.

To break in your new front brake pads, just drive normally for the first few hundred miles while trying to avoid any hard or "panic" stops which may glaze over the new pads and cause them to be noisy and/or not perform as well.

It's also a good idea to regularly check your driveway for drops of brake fluid which may indicate a leak, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir, and also verify that the lug nuts are still tight.

Be sure to record the brake pad change in your vehicle's service records.

For more, check out all of my 2005-2010 Honda Odyssey DIY Repair & Maintenance Guides.

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