Owners of other Kia or Hyundai models such as the Grand Carnival, Sorento, Sportage, Niro, Soul, K900, Stinger, Cadenza, Optima, Rio, Forte, Genesis, Sonata, Ioniq, Santa Fe, Tucson, Elantra and Accent may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful.

A few compatible replacement sets of new front brake pads with their part numbers are as follows: Wagner QC1814, Power Stop 16-1814, Monroe GX1814, Proforce SMD1814 and ACDelco 17D1202CH.

The tools needed to complete this procedure include a lug nut wrench, a floor jack, two jack stands, a 14mm socket, a 3/8" drive ratchet, a 17mm wrench (to hold the caliper slider pins), an "F" clamp and a tube of brake caliper grease.

Engage the emergency parking brake and place wheel chocks on both sides of the rear wheels to prevent the vehicle from moving.

Slightly loosen the five lug nuts on the front wheel by turning them about 1/4 turn in the counterclockwise direction.

I prefer to only work on one side of the vehicle at a time to keep three tires on the ground for extra safety.

Carefully raise the front of the car with the floor jack and securely support it with at least two jack stands.

Then spin off the five lug nuts in the counterclockwise direction and set them aside in a safe place.

Pull off the front wheel to reveal the front rotor, bracket, caliper and suspension.

Set the front wheel aside in a safe place.

The two caliper bolt heads face in towards the engine bay.

Loosen the top caliper bolt by turning it in the clockwise direction (as seen from the outside of the vehicle) with the 14mm socket and a 3/8" drive ratchet.

Then loosen the bottom caliper bolt by turning it in the clockwise direction (as seen from the outside of the car) with the 14mm socket and the 3/8" drive ratchet.

Set the two caliper bolts aside in a safe place.

Rest the caliper on top of the caliper or suspend it from the suspension spring with a bungee cord.

Try to avoid bending, stressing, kinking or pulling on the rubber brake fluid line.

Gently remove the two "U" or "V" shaped metal spring clips off the front edge of the old brake pads.

Set the two metal spring clips aside in a safe place.

Make a mental note of where the wear indicator bar or "squeal" bar is located on the old brake pads.

On this 2015 Sedona LX, the wear indicator bar was situated at the top of the old inner brake pad.

Apply a thin layer of brake parts lubricant grease to the new pad abutment clips where they will come in contact with the bracket and also the "ears" (ends) of the new brake pads.

Push the new pad abutment clips down into place at the top and bottom of the bracket.

Pull the caliper slider pins or "guide bolts" out of their rubber dust boots at the top and bottom of the bracket.

Spread a thin layer of brake parts lubricant on to the two caliper slider pins.

Push the caliper slider pins back into their rubber dust boots.

Move to the right rear area of the engine bay (closest to the driver's seat) and twist off the black plastic brake fluid reservoir cap in the counterclockwise direction.

Removing the reservoir cap will allow the brake fluid to more easily travel back through the lines when you compress the caliper pistons.

Set the reservoir cap aside in a safe place.

You may need to re-position the "F" clamp to fully compress both caliper pistons.

Repeatedly check the brake fluid level in the reservoir while you are compressing the caliper pistons to make sure it doesn't overflow.

Clean up any spilled brake fluid immediately since it can easily damage painted surfaces.

Continue compressing the two pistons until they are just about flush with the rubber dust boots that surround them.

Try to avoid pinching or otherwise damaging the rubber dust boots that surround the caliper pistons.

Replace the reservoir cap as soon as possible.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic so it quickly absorbs moisture from the air which can lead to reduced braking performance.

Thoroughly clean off the brake rotor, caliper bracket, brake caliper assembly and the lug studs with brake parts cleaner spray. Do not use compressed air or blow with your mouth to clean off the brake parts since inhaling brake dust can be harmful to your health. Brake dust could be carcinogenic (cancer causing) if inhaled.

Apply a thin layer of brake parts lubricant grease to any area where there is metal to metal contact such as the outer lip of the caliper piston. Do not apply brake caliper grease to the friction surface of the new pads or the rotor.

 If your Sedona has previously exhibited shuddering, pulsations or vibrations in the front end during braking, you may need to have your rotors "turned" (resurfaced) or just replace them with new rotors. If this is the first front brake job on your minivan and the rotors appear to be in excellent condition, you should be able to just replace the pads with great results.

The torque specification in the service manual for the brake caliper bracket bolts is 57.9 to 72.3 lb-ft.

I've always had great experiences with the Wagner "ThermoQuiet" QC1814 front brake pads.

The wear indicator bar should be situated at the top of the new inner brake pad.

Push the two pads together until they are flush against the rotor.

Carefully lower the caliper over the new brake pads and into the bracket.

Spin in the two caliper bolts a few turns by hand in the counterclockwise direction (as seen from the outside of the vehicle) to prevent them from becoming cross threaded.

The service manual specifies that the caliper bolts should be tightened to 15.9 to 23.1 lb-ft of torque.

If your brake pedal has been feeling soft or spongy, the brake fluid may be contaminated with water or the brake lines may contain a few air bubbles.

It would be best to bleed the brake lines at this time in order to flush out the old fluid to remove the air bubbles and replace it with fresh DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid. For more on this topic, check out my Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With An Assistant DIY Guide or alternatively the Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With A Power Bleeder Guide.

The brake fluid bleeder valve is located just below the top caliper bolt under a rubber cap.

Carefully lower the vehicle from the jack stands by using the floor jack.

Continue tightening the lug nuts in a "star" pattern to about 1/4 turn past hand tight.

It would be best to use a torque wrench or an electric impact wrench with a torque stick and tighten the lug nuts to the service manual specification of 65.1 to 79.6 lb-ft of torque.

Double check that the lug nuts are tight.

Sit in the driver's seat of the vehicle and firmly pump the brake pedal a few times to restore the brake line pressure. Check the brake fluid in the reservoir and verify that it is at the proper level. If it is low, add some fresh DOT 4 fluid.

To break in your new front brake pads, just drive normally for the first few hundred miles while trying to avoid any hard or "panic" stops which might glaze over the new pads and cause them to be noisy and not perform as well.

It's also a good idea to regularly check your driveway for drops of fresh brake fluid which may indicate a leak, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir and also verify that the lug nuts are still tight.

Be sure to record the brake pad change in your vehicle's service records.

For more, please check out all of my Kia Sedona DIY Repair & Maintenance Guides.