Some of the issues included water leaking from the tank to the bowl, the flapper wouldn't seat correctly after flushing and the fill valve would constantly be turning on to partially re-fill the tank due to the leaks.

The constant noise from the toilet, always having to "jiggle" the flush handle and the high water bills were driving me crazy.

Since I've used the Fluidmaster Kit in the past, I decided to try the Korky Universal Complete Repair Kit # 4010PK made by Lavelle. I got it from Amazon.

The Fluidmaster 400AK kit includes a new flush handle, which the Korky does not.

All of the parts in the kit seemed to be high quality plastic, rubber and metal hardware especially considering the low price. A two sided instruction paper was included with illustrations and clearly laid out steps.

The first few steps for installing the kit are to remove the tank lid, close the water supply valve by turning it clockwise until it stops and then flush the toilet to drain the water from the tank.

They included the fill valve assembly, flush valve assembly, foam rubber gasket (between tank and toilet bowl), a bag of mounting screws with rubber and metal washers, the rubber fill tube, and two plastic nuts for securing the water supply line to the tank.

The next step is to place a bucket or small trash can below where the water supply hose attaches to the underside of the tank. Twist off the plastic nut that holds the hose in place by turning it counter clockwise.

Loosen the plastic fill valve mounting nut by hand or with a pair of pliers and turn it counter clockwise to remove it.

Move to the bottom of the tank and loosen the two nuts on the mounting screws by turning them counter clockwise with a pair of pliers.

Carefully lift the tank off the toilet bowl and rest the back side on top of the seat lid.

Insert the flush valve in to the tank with the flapper facing towards the fill valve hole at an angle. (See Picture # 53.)

Place the chipboard washer on to the flush valve threads at the bottom of the tank.

Push the wider end of the new red rubber sponge gasket on to the bottom of the new flush valve. Make sure that the gasket is flush against the bottom of the tank with the narrower end pointing out towards you.

Push the new rubber washers all the way to the top of the new screws.

Carefully lower the tank down on to the toilet while lining up the two screws with the holes at the rear of the bowl.

Attach a metal washer and nut to each of the mounting screws.

Once the tank just barely makes contact with the toilet bowl, very carefully continue tightening the nuts until the tank no longer wobbles when you touch it.

Be very careful to not over tighten the mounting nuts, or you risk cracking the ceramic toilet bowl and/or tank.

Raise the top of the overflow tube until it is 3/4 of an inch above the water line and about 1" below the flush level nut.

Unlock the large adjustment tube on the new fill valve by turning it counter clockwise about 1/4 turn.

Extend the tube all the way out.

Once the fill valve has been adjusted to the correct height, lock it by gently twisting the lower tube 1/4 turn clockwise until you hear a click or "snap" sound.

Re-insert the new fill valve with the small fill hose facing directly towards the overflow tube.

Twist on the nut at the bottom of the tank to secure the new fill valve in place. Only hand tighten the nut until it is snug.

Attach the chain from the flapper valve to the flush lever with a very small amount of slack.

If the fill hose kinks or is just too long, trim off a short section so that it only has a small curve in it.

Some types of water supply lines will be able to use the new plastic nut in the kit.

Our water supply line was a braided stainless steel one, so I just re-used the old nut.

Spin on the water supply line and tighten the plastic nut to just past hand tight. Do not use a wrench to tighten the nut or over tighten it since you may damage the rubber washer and cause a leak.

Turn on the water supply by turning the valve all the way open in the counter clockwise direction until it stops. Make sure that the valve is fully open to firmly seat the rubber washer inside of it and prevent a leak.

Place some newspapers or cardboard below the toilet tank so you can quickly see if there are any leaks over the next few days.

Enjoy your quiet toilet and lower water bills!

Overall, I found the Korky 4010PK kit to be relatively easy to install and it seems to be working great.

If I had realized that it didn't come with a new flush handle, I may have chosen the Fluidmaster kit.

Although I don't like that the Fluidmaster kit I previously used required that I cut the overflow tube with a hack saw, which can be a problem if you cut off too much.

Plus I prefer the more advanced fill valve in the Korky kit compared to the older design floating cylinder on the Fluidmaster fill valve.

For more, check out my other Home Repair & Maintenance Guides.