Mitsubishi
Outlander Sport 12V Battery Replacement Guide
How to change a dead 12 volt car battery
in the engine bay of a 3rd generation 2011 to 2017 Outlander Sport.
2015 Outlander Sport Battery |
Plastic Radiator Cover |
Pry Up Center of Fastener |
This
automotive maintenance tutorial was specifically written to assist
owners of the third generation (2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
and 2017) Mitsubishi Outlander Sport in changing a dead 12 volt car
battery in the engine bay. Owners of other Mitsubishi vehicles such as the Lancer, Outlander, Mirage, ASX, RVR, Galant, I-MIEV, Montero, Eclipse, 3000GT, Endeavor, Raider, Diamante, Attrage, Carisma, Colt, Grandis, Magna, Pajero and the Space Star may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful. A few compatible replacement Group Size 35 batteries with their part numbers are as follows: Optima 8040-218 D35, Optima 8020-164 35, Exide Edge FP-AGM35 and Bosch S6523B S6. The tools needed to replace the battery include a flathead screwdriver (or a pop rivet removal tool), a Phillips head screwdriver, and a 10mm wrench. |
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Plastic Pop Rivet Removed |
3rd Pop Rivet |
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The first two steps
are to open the hood and then move to the right (driver) side of the engine
bay. The 12V car battery is located behind the driver side headlight housing, next to the electrical fuse box and below the air intake assembly. In order to access the old 12 volt battery, you'll first have to remove the large black plastic radiator cover and the air intake. There are four plastic pop rivets holding the radiator cover in place. Use a flathead screwdriver or a pop rivet removal tool to pry out the center of each fastener before lifting out the base. |
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Remove 4th Pop Rivet |
4 Pop Rivets Removed |
Lift Plastic Cover |
Set the four pop
rivets aside in a safe place. Gently lift the rear edge of the radiator cover and swing it towards the front bumper. |
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Plastic Cover Out of the Way |
Plastic Air Intake |
Loosen Counterclockwise |
Allow the radiator
cover to hang off the front edge of the SUV. Locate the two black plastic fasteners at the front edge of the air intake assembly. Loosen the plastic screws by turning them counterclockwise with the Phillips head screwdriver. |
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2nd Phillips Head Screw |
2 Plastic Phillips Fasteners |
Lift Out Air Intake Assembly |
Pull the two
fasteners out and set them aside in a safe place. Gently lift the front edge of the air intake assembly and pull the back end out of the engine air filter box. |
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6 Fasteners & Air Intake |
Old Battery Exposed |
Loosen Negative Terminal |
Set the air intake
assembly aside in a safe place with the six plastic fasteners. Loosen the negative "-" terminal on the right (driver) side of the battery by turning the nut counterclockwise with a 10mm wrench or a 10mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet. |
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Pull Off "-" Terminal |
Cover & Tuck Away |
Loosen Battery Clamp |
Pull the negative
terminal off the "-" battery post.
Wrap the terminal in a small towel and tuck it away on the side of the battery to help prevent accidental contact. The battery hold down bar or "clamp" is held in place by two "J" hook bars with a 10mm nut attached to the top of each one. Loosen the two nuts by turning them counterclockwise with a 10mm wrench or a deep well 10mm socket and a 1/4" drive ratchet. |
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Front 10mm Nut |
Lift Off Hold Down Bar |
Flip Open Red Plastic Cover |
You don't have to
completely remove the two 10mm nuts on the battery hold down bar. Pull the two "J" hooks at the bottom of the bars out of their sockets. Lift the battery clamp out of the engine bay while avoiding making contact with the battery posts. Set the battery clamp aside in a safe place. Flip open the red plastic cover on the positive "+" battery terminal. |
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Loosen 10mm Nut |
Pull Off Positive Terminal |
Lift Out Old Battery |
Loosen the 10mm nut
on the positive terminal by turning it counterclockwise.
Pull the positive terminal off the "+" battery post. Flip the red plastic cover closed over the positive battery terminal to help prevent accidental electrical contact. Carefully lift the old battery out of the engine bay and gently set it down on the ground. Try to avoid dropping or tipping over the old battery which may cause acid to leak out. Be sure to bring the old battery with you to the auto parts store or Walmart to avoid having to pay a "core", "disposal" or recycling fee. The retailer will also have the old battery properly recycled. If you can wait a few days for delivery, I recommend buying the Optima 8040-218 D35 "Red Top" 12V battery since it has excellent reviews on Amazon. (The OEM Group Size 35 battery was a Johnson Controls part number 8201A258 with 530 CCA and 118 reserve capacity.) |
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Clean Plastic Battery Tray |
Lower In New Battery |
Push On Positive Terminal |
Clean off any
debris from the black plastic battery tray so that the new battery will rest
evenly on it. Gently lower the new 12V battery in to the engine bay with the positive "+" post on the left (passenger) side and the negative "-" post on the right (driver) side. Push the positive terminal on to the "+" battery post on the left (passenger) side of the battery. |
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Tighten 10mm Nut |
Close Red Plastic Cover |
Lower In Battery Clamp |
Tighten the 10mm
nut on the positive terminal by turning it clockwise until it is snug. Try to avoid over tightening the terminal nut to prevent from damaging the battery post which may lead to an acid leak. Flip the red plastic cover over the positive terminal. Carefully lower the two "J" hook bars and the hold down bar down over the new battery. Try to avoid making contact with the battery posts. |
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Re-Insert Rear "J" Hook |
Re-Insert Front "J" Bar |
Tighten 10mm Nut |
Re-insert the "J"
hooks at the bottom of the two bars in to their sockets on the front and
back side of the battery tray. Tighten the two 10mm nuts on the battery hold down clamp by turning them clockwise until they are snug. |
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Tighten Rear 10mm Nut |
Push On Negative Terminal |
Tighten 10mm Clockwise |
Check that the new
battery is securely in place and can't be rocked, moved, or slid around on
the tray. If the new battery can be moved, tighten the two 10mm nuts on the hold down bar an extra turn or two. Push the negative terminal on to the "-" battery post. Tighten the 10mm nut on the negative terminal in the clockwise direction until it is snug. |
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New Battery Installed |
Lower In Air Intake |
Re-Attach To Air Box |
Lower the rear part of the air intake assembly in to the air filter box. | ||
Line Up Holes |
Re-Insert Plastic Fasteners |
Pop In Phillips Screws |
Line up the two
holes on the front of the air intake mounting bracket with the holes in the
metal frame. Re-insert the two plastic fasteners and gently pop in the plastic Phillips head screws to secure them in place. |
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Flip Cover Back In Place |
Replace Four Pop Rivets |
Radiator Cover Replaced |
Gently flip the
plastic radiator cover back over the engine bay. Re-insert the four plastic fasteners and pop in the center piece of each one to secure them in place. Test the new 12V battery by starting the engine and turning on the headlights. Please remember to adjust the time on the clock and program your favorite radio station presets before you start driving. For more,
check out all of my
2011-2017 Mitsubishi Outlander DIY Repair & Maintenance Guides. |
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