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Nissan Rogue Front Brake Pads Replacement Guide
How to change the front brake pads on a 1st generation 2008-2013 Nissan Rogue SUV with picture illustrated steps.

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2011 Rogue Front Wheel
Pull Off Wheel Cover
Loosen 5 Lug Nuts
This automotive "how-to" guide was specifically written to assist owners of the 1st generation (2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, & 2013) Nissan Rogue in replacing the front disc brake pads and lubricating the caliper slider pins.

Owners of other Nissan or Infiniti vehicles such as the Versa, Cube, Sentra, Altima, LEAF, Maxima, Juke, Murano, Xterra, Pathfinder, Armada, Quest, Frontier, Titan, 370Z, G37, M37, EX37, FX37, JX35, and QX56 may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful.

The tools needed to complete this front brake job include a floor jack, jack stands, a tire iron, a 14mm socket with ratcheting wrench, a "C" or "F" clamp, brake parts lubricant, and a new set of front brake pads.

A few compatible aftermarket replacement front brake pads with their part numbers are as follows: Akebono ACT1338, Wagner QC1338, ACDelco 17D1338CH, Bendix D1338 CQ, Raybestos PGD1338C and Wagner ZD1338.

Raise Front of Vehicle
Spin Off Lug Nuts
5 Lug Nuts Removed
The first few steps are to park the vehicle on a level surface, engage the emergency / parking brake and chock the rear wheels to prevent the vehicle from moving.

If equipped, pull off the plastic wheel cover or "hub cap" to reveal the lug nuts.

Slightly loosen the lug nuts with the tire iron by turning them counter clockwise.

Then raise the front of the vehicle with the floor jack and securely support it with two jack stands. (I prefer to work on one side of the vehicle at a time for extra safety.)

Spin off the 5 lug nuts and set them aside in a safe place.

Caliper, Rotor, Bracket
Front Brake Caliper
Loosen Upper 14mm Bolt
Pull off the front wheel to reveal the front brake caliper, bracket and rotor.

Locate the upper and lower bolts on the back side of the caliper. Loosen them with a 14mm socket and ratcheting wrench by turning them clockwise (as seen from the outside of the vehicle).

Remove Upper Caliper Bolt
Loosen Lower Bolt
Remove Lower Caliper Bolt
Remove the two caliper bolts and set them aside in a safe place.
Lift Off Caliper
Rest On Suspension
Remove Outer Pad
Lift the caliper out of the bracket and securely rest it on the suspension. For extra safety, you may want to attach the caliper to the suspension spring with some twine or a bungee cord.

Try to avoid stressing the rubber brake fluid line.

Remove Inner Pad
Wear Bar - Top Inner Pad
Replace Anti-Rattle Clips
Pull the old outer and inner brake pads out of the bracket.

Make a mental note of how the wear indicator or "squeal" bar is situated. On this 2011 Rogue, the wear indicator bar was located at the top of the inner brake pad.

I recommend buying the Akebono ACT1338 front brake pads since they have excellent reviews on Amazon.

If your new set of front brake pads came with new metal pad abutment or "anti-rattle" clips, pull the old ones out of the top and bottom of the bracket before installing the new ones.

If your new pads do not have a new wear indicator bar, pry the old one off the old inner pad and install it on one of the new pads.

Remove Upper Caliper Pin
Lubricate & Replace Pin
Attach "F" Clamp With Pad
In order for the brake caliper to work properly, the caliper slider pins need to be well lubricated.

Gently pull the upper and lower caliper slider pins out of their rubber dust boots. Apply some brake caliper grease to the pins and push them back in until their rubber dust boots snap in to place.

In order for the caliper to fit over the thicker new brake pads, the piston will need to be compressed backwards a bit.

Attach the "C" or "F" clamp over the piston using the back of an old brake pad to evenly distribute the force.


Twist Off Brake Fluid Cap
Slowly Compress Piston
Install New Outer Pad
Move to the engine bay and twist off the brake fluid reservoir cap by turning it counter clockwise. Removing the cap will allow the brake fluid to more easily travel backwards through the system when the caliper piston is compressed.

Very slowly compress the caliper piston with the "F" clamp until it is flush with the rubber dust boot. Repeatedly check the fluid level in the reservoir to ensure that it does not overflow. Clean up any spilled brake fluid immediately since it can cause damage to painted surfaces.

Replace the brake fluid cap as soon as you are done compressing the piston since brake fluid is hygroscopic (readily absorbs moisture).

Thoroughly clean off the brake rotor, caliper bracket, brake caliper assembly and the lug nut studs with brake parts cleaner spray. Do not use compressed air or blow with your mouth to clean off the brake parts since breathing in brake dust can be harmful to your health. Brake dust may be carcinogenic (causes cancer) if inhaled.

If your vehicle exhibits shuddering, pulsating, or vibrations during braking, you may need to have your rotors "turned" (resurfaced) or it may be easier to just replace them with brand new rotors. If this is the car's first front brake job and the rotors appear to be in excellent condition, you should be able to just replace the pads with great results.

To remove the existing rotors and install new ones, just remove the two 19mm bolts on the rear of the caliper bracket that attach it to the steering knuckle. Then loosen the old rotor with a rubber mallet, pull it off, and slide the new one in its place.

Wear Bar - Top Inner Pad
Push Pads Against Rotor
Replace Brake Caliper
Apply a thin layer of brake parts lubricant on to any surface where there is metal to metal contact such as the outer ring of the piston and the backs of the new pads. Do not apply caliper grease to the friction surface of the pads or the rotor.

Install the new brake pads in to the bracket with the wear indicator bar positioned at the top of the inner pad.

Press the two brake pads flush against the rotor.

Carefully lower the caliper down over the new pads and in to the bracket.

If the caliper won't fit over the new pads, you may need to compress the piston back a bit further with the "C" clamp.

Thread In Caliper Bolt
Replace Lower Bolt
Tighten With 14mm Socket
Line up the bolt holes in the caliper with the holes in the caliper slider pins.

Thread in the two caliper bolts a few turns by hand to prevent them from becoming cross threaded.

Tighten the caliper bolts by turning them counter clockwise (as seen from outside the vehicle) with the 14mm socket and ratcheting wrench to just past hand tight or about 20-25 ft lbs of torque.

Double check that both caliper bolts are tight before continuing on to the next steps.

Tighten Lower Caliper Bolt
Rubber Valve Cap
Brake Fluid Bleeder Valve

If your brake pedal has been feeling soft or spongy, the brake fluid may be contaminated with moisture or the brake lines may contain a few air bubbles.

It would be best to bleed the brake lines at this time in order to flush out the old fluid and replace it with fresh DOT3 brake fluid. For more on this topic, check out my Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With An Assistant DIY Guide or alternatively the Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With A Power Bleeder Guide.

Replace Brake Fluid Cap
Replace Front Wheel
Twist On Lug Nuts
If you haven't already done so, replace the brake fluid cap by twisting it on in the clockwise direction.

Replace the front wheel and spin on the 5 lug nuts by hand to prevent them becoming cross threaded.

Slightly Tighten Nuts
Lower Vehicle From Stands
Torque Lug Nuts
Slightly tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern with the lug nut wrench.

Lower the vehicle from the jack stands using the floor jack until the front wheel holds enough weight to keep it from spinning.

Replace Hub Cap
Tap Wheel Cover In Place
Front Brake Job Complete
Progressively tighten the lug nuts in a "criss cross" or "star" pattern to about 1/4 to 1/3 turn past hand tight. It would be best to use either a torque wrench or an impact wrench with a torque stick to tighten the lug nuts to about 80-85 ft lbs of torque.

Replace the plastic wheel covers and firmly tap them in to place.

Sit in the driver's seat of your Rogue and pump the brake pedal a few times to restore the brake line pressure.

Check the brake fluid in the reservoir and verify that it is at the proper level. If it is low, add some DOT 3 fluid.

To break in or "bed in" your new front brake pads to the rotors, just drive normally for the first few hundred miles while trying to avoid any hard or "panic" stops which may glaze over the new pads and cause them to be noisy and not stop as well.

It's also a good idea to regularly check your driveway for drops of brake fluid which may indicate a leak, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir, and also verify that the lug nuts are still tight.

For more, check out my other Nissan Rogue Repair & Maintenance Guides.

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