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VW Jetta 2.5L I5 Engine Oil Change Guide
How to change the 2.5L I5 engine oil and replace the filter in a 6th generation MK6 2011-2014 Volkswagen Jetta.

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2012 VW Jetta 2.5L I5
Twist Off Oil Filler Cap
Pull Up Oil Dipstick
This automotive maintenance tutorial was specifically written to assist owners of the 6th generation MK6 (2011, 2012, 2013 & 2014) Volkswagen Jetta sedan or Jetta SportWagen in changing the engine oil and replacing the cartridge oil filter in the 2.5 liter inline five cylinder motor.

Owners of other VW Group vehicles equipped with the 2.5L L5 engine such as the previous generation MK5 (2005-2010) Jetta, Vento, Bora, Passat, Lavida, Sportwagen, Rabbit, Beetle, Golf, Eurovan and Seat Toledo may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful.

The items needed to complete this procedure include a floor jack, two jack stands, a Torx T25 star bit screwdriver, a 19mm socket, a 3/8" drive ratcheting wrench, a used oil catch container, a 74mm oil filter wrench with 14 flats (A.K.A. "flutes" or "points"), a new cartridge style oil filter and 7 U.S. quarts of new SAE 5W-40 synthetic oil.

A few compatible oil filter wrenches that are approximately 74mm in size with 14 flats include the following with their part numbers: Assenmacher Specialty Tools # M 0219 (74mm), SmartDIY 903, Hazet # 2169 (74.4mm), AST Tools # 2175 (74.5mm) and the MetalNerd # MN7614 (74-76mm).

To use the AST Tools # M0219 wrench, you'll need either a 3/8" drive ratcheting wrench to insert in to the hole on the top or attach a 22mm socket with a 1/2" drive ratcheting wrench to the hex head.

Replacement aftermarket cartridge style oil filter elements with their part numbers are as follows: Mann-Filter HU 719/6 X, K&N PS-7010, Mobil 1 M1C-451, Bosch L3581, Wix 57187, Mahle OX 379D, Pennzoil HPZ-162, Ecogard X5581, Purolator L35581, ACDelco PF2257, Beck Arnley 041-8184, Angstrom Autohaus 06D115562 and Volkswagen 06D115562.

Plastic Under Engine Cover
Silver Drain Plug Bolt
Remove Torx T25 Screws
The first three steps are to warm up the engine for a few minutes, park the car on a level surface and then shut off the engine.

Warming up the engine will help suspend any contaminants or "sludge" within the old oil and also allow it to drain out more quickly.

Then engage the emergency / parking brake and chock the rear wheels to prevent the vehicle from moving.

Open the hood, twist off the oil filler cap in the counter clockwise direction and pull up the yellow handled oil level dipstick a few inches.

Removing the oil filler cap and pulling up the dipstick a few inches will help prevent a vacuum from forming and help the old oil drain out more quickly.

Raise the front passenger side of the vehicle with the floor jack and securely support it with the two jack stands.

I prefer to raise just the front passenger side of the car to access the underside of the engine and leave the three other wheels on the ground for extra safety.

You may choose to raise the entire front of the vehicle or use ramps instead of stands.

Slide under the front passenger side of the engine bay with a Torx T25 screwdriver, a 19mm socket, a 3/8" drive ratcheting wrench, the used oil catch container and a small flathead screwdriver.

Four Screws On Each Side
Pull Out Plastic Tab At Front
Remove Other Four Screws
The silver metal oil drain bolt is located at the rear edge of the black metal oil pan towards the back of the engine bay.

To access the oil filter housing, you'll need to remove the 8 screws holding the black plastic under engine cover (A.K.A. "belly pan" or "splash guard") in place.

Remove the screws by turning them counter clockwise with the Torx T25 star bit screwdriver.

There are 4 screws on the passenger side and another 4 on the driver's side of the panel.

Pull the cover towards the rear of the vehicle to separate the two tabs on the front edge from their slots.

Set the plastic cover and the 8 screws aside in a safe place.

Plastic Oil Filter Housing
Position Used Oil Basin
Loosen 19mm Drain Plug
The round black plastic oil filter housing is located just in front of the black metal oil pan and it is surrounded by rubber hoses.

Slide the used oil catch basin to just below the oil drain plug.

Loosen the oil drain bolt by turning it counter clockwise with the 19mm socket and 3/8" drive ratcheting wrench.

Drain Out Old Motor Oil
Tighten 19mm Oil Drain Bolt
Unscrew Plastic Cap
Be careful when you remove the oil drain bolt, since the old oil may be hot enough to burn your skin depending on how long you warmed up the engine.

I'd recommend wearing latex rubber or Nitrile gloves when removing the oil drain plug to keep your hands clean since used engine oil may contain carcinogenic chemicals and/or heavy metals that may cause skin cancer.

Spin out the oil drain bolt and allow the old oil to drain out for at least a few minutes or until the flow slows to an occasional drip.

Volkswagen recommends replacing the oil drain bolt at every oil change. Some people prefer to replace the drain plug every other oil change or every third oil change. The OEM part number for the new oil drain plug is # N90813202.

Spin in the oil drain bolt by hand in the clockwise direction to prevent it from becoming cross threaded.

Tighten the oil drain bolt with the 19mm socket and ratcheting wrench in the clockwise direction to just past hand tight or about 22 ft-lbs (30 Nm) of torque.

Do not over tighten the oil drain bolt to prevent from stripping the aluminum threads.

Double check that the drain plug is tight before moving on to the next steps.

Next, unscrew the small plastic end cap at the bottom of the oil filter housing attached to a black tether cable in the counter clockwise direction.


Push In Drain Nipple
Attach 74mm Filter Wrench
Spin Off Counter Clockwise
Once the cover is removed, you'll see the the reddish orange drain nipple.

Move the used oil catch basin to just below the oil filter housing.

Gently push the drain nipple up at an angle with a small flathead screwdriver until it stays in place.

Allow the old oil to drain out of the oil filter housing.

Gently push up on the drain nipple again until it can be released back in to the down "closed" position.

If you are concerned about damaging the drain nipple with out using the special VW / Audi "Oil Filter Housing Drain Tool" (part # T40057 from AST Tools), you can just skip the preceding steps.

To avoid having to pay anywhere from $60 to $80 for the specialty drain tool, you can either use a screwdriver to push in the drain nipple or just twist off the filter housing and wear gloves to keep the old oil off your hands.

Attach the 74mm with 14 flats oil filter wrench to the black plastic oil filter housing.

Loosen the filter housing by rotating it in the counter clockwise direction using the appropriate socket and/or ratcheting wrench.

If you have trouble turning the filter housing and your filter wrench is loose or slipping, try either wrapping the housing with some Gorilla Tape or insert a piece of newspaper or paper towel in to the wrench to give it some extra grip.

Try to avoid rounding off the sides of the plastic filter housing, which may make it more difficult to remove during future oil changes.

Replace Filter & O-Ring
Replace Plastic End Cap
Replace Engine Splash Shield
Detach the filter wrench and continue spinning off the filter housing in the counter clockwise until it can be detached from the engine.

Turn over the filter housing and drain out any remaining oil in to the used oil catch container.

Pull out the old cartridge oil filter element and discard it. Use a pair of needle nose pliers or a small flathead screwdriver to remove the old rubber o-ring gasket at the bottom of the threads inside the filter cap.

I recommend buying the Mann-Filter HU 719/6 X oil filter since it has excellent reviews on Amazon.

Lubricate the new o-ring with some new SAE 5W-40 motor oil and push it in to place at the bottom of the threads inside the oil filter housing. If the new o-ring is equipped with a small pull tab, position it in the up position for easy removal during the next oil change.

Push the new cartridge oil filter down in to the housing until it clicks securely in to place.

Clean up the area around the oil filter receptacle and make sure that the old rubber o-ring gasket or any part of it is not stuck to the engine.

Spin on the oil filter housing in the clockwise direction to just past hand tight or about 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) of torque.

Do not over tighten the oil filter housing to avoid damaging the plastic housing, the threads or the rubber o-ring since it may cause an oil leak.

Double check that the oil drain bolt and filter housing are tight before moving on the next steps.

Line up the tabs on the front edge of the plastic engine underside cover and re-insert them in to the their corresponding slots by sliding the cover forwards.

Replace Torx T25 Screws
Turn Clockwise
Tighten 8 Screws
Replace the 8 screws and tighten them in the clockwise direction with the Torx T25 screwdriver until they are snug.
Lower Car From Stands
Insert Automotive Funnel
Pour In New 5W-40 Oil
Lower the car from the jack stands using the floor jack.

Insert an automotive funnel in to the oil filler hole.

Carefully pour in about 5.5 to 6 quarts of new SAE 5W-40 synthetic oil in to the engine.

The 2.5L I5 engine's total capacity for an oil change with filter replacement is 6.3 U.S. qts (or 6.0 liters).

It is far better to have slightly less oil than necessary in an engine than to have too much oil in it. Running an engine that has been overfilled with oil may damage seals, gaskets or other components.

Replace Oil Filler Cap
Check Dipstick Oil Level
Engine Oil Change Complete!
Replace the oil filler cap by twisting it on in the clockwise direction and push down the dipstick.

Run the engine for a few minutes, shut it off, and allow the oil to drain back down to the pan for at least 5 minutes.

Pull out the dipstick, wipe it clean, re-insert it, and pull it out again to check the oil level.

If necessary, slowly pour in more oil while repeatedly checking the level on the dipstick until it reaches at or just below the "Full" line indicated by a metal dot at the top of the cross hatched area.

You may not need to pour in the entire 6.3 quarts of new SAE 5W-40 oil depending on how long you allowed the old oil to drain out.

To reset the oil change service reminder (indicated by a "wrench" image on the display), follow these steps: 1. Sit in the driver's seat, close the door, and turn off the ignition. 2. Press and hold the "0.0 / Set" trip meter button near the right side of the gauges and behind the steering wheel. 3. Turn the ignition to the "On" position but do not start the engine. 4. Release the "0.0 / Set" button. 4. Within 20 seconds, press the "minute" button on the left side of the dashboard just below the gauges and behind the steering wheel. The "wrench" symbol should now no longer be displayed.

If your vehicle has the "Volkswagen Information System" multi function display screen in between the gauges, you'll need to turn the ignition switch to the "On" position but do not start the engine, navigate to the "Settings" menu, scroll down to "Service", push "OK", choose the "Reset" option and then select "OK" to reset the service interval.

Be sure to record the oil change in your Jetta's service records.

For more, check out my other VW Jetta DIY Repair Guides.

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