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Yamaha YZF-R6 Sportbike Motorcycle Oil Change
A guide to changing the motor oil in your Yamaha YZF R6 or any other Japanese, American, Italian and British motorcycle.

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YZF-R6 Service Manual
Oil Filter Part # 3FV-13440-10
Yamaha R6 OEM Oil Filter
This DIY maintenance tutorial was specifically written for changing the motor oil in the 600CC engine of a 1st generation 1999, 2000, 2001 & 2002 Yamaha YZF-R6 sportbike motorcycle.

I'd also assume that owners of the YZF R1, R7, YZF600 and other Yamaha sportbike, touring & metric cruiser motorcycles would also find this oil change guide useful.

Before you get started changing the oil in your motorcycle, you'll need the following items: a new oil filter, motor oil, a metric socket set, a ratcheting wrench, an oil catch basin, screwdrivers, a plastic funnel, and a rear stand (optional).

If you have a service manual for your Yamaha R6, now would be a great time to whip it out and check the specific requirements of the engine for your model year.

The 2000 R6 requires a genuine Yamaha replacement oil filter which is part number 3FV-13440-10 and 3 U.S. quarts of new SAE 10W-30 or SAE 20W-40 engine oil.


A few other compatible replacement oil filters with their part numbers are as follows: K&N KN-303, Fram PH6017A, Hiflofiltro HF303RC, Mahle OC 575, Purolator ML16817 and Mobil 1 M1MC-134.
Yamaha-R6-Sportbike-Oil-Change-004 Yamaha-R6-Sportbike-Oil-Change-005
Yamaha R6 Recommended Oil
YZF-R6 Oil Amounts
Although the Yamaha YZF-R6 service manual recommends SAE 20W-40 motor oil at ambient temperatures above 40 degrees Fahrenheit, I opted for Mobil 1 SAE 15W-50 "Red Cap" full synthetic oil.

If you do decide to use anything besides the manufacturer recommended motor oil for your motorcycle, make sure that it doesn't have the words "Energy Conserving" on the bottle since those contain friction modifier additives that can cause clutch slippage.

My 2000 Yamaha YZF R6
Mobil 1 15w50 Oil "Red Cap"
Oil Drain Catch Container
Blitz 15 Quart Oil Drain
Lockhart Philips Rear Stand
Oil Filler Cap (Right Side)

If you haven't just come back home from a nice long ride, you'll need to start up your motorcycle and let it warm up for a few minutes.

By warming the engine, more of the contaminants in the old oil will become suspended and be carried out of the engine when the oil is drained.

Oil Level Check Dipstick
Yamaha-R6-Sportbike-Oil-Change-014 Yamaha-R6-Sportbike-Oil-Change-015
R6 Lower Plastic Fairings
Next you'll want to take off the lower fairings by removing  5 screws (2 large, 3 small) on each side of the bike.

If your fairings are in like new condition, you'll want to place a towel below the bike so that the plastic won't scratch on the rough surface of your garage/driveway.

Now it would be advisable to place the oil catch basin below the engine.

Lower Fairings -10 Screws
16483 Miles
174 Degrees -  600cc Engine
Catch Pan Under Drain Bolt
R6 17mm Oil Drain Bolt
17mm Socket & Rachet Wrench

Once you have the lower fairings on your R6 removed, you can access the oil drain bolt located on the underside of the bike to the left of the exhaust pipe.

You'll need a 17mm metric socket and a 3/8" drive ratcheting wrench to loosen the oil drain bolt.

Be careful when removing the drain bolt as the oil can be hot enough to burn your skin.

I'd recommend using a towel or rag for the last few turns so that most of the hot oil does not end up on your hands.

Yamaha-R6-Sportbike-Oil-Change-022 Yamaha-R6-Sportbike-Oil-Change-023
Old Dirty Oil Draining
Chain Wax & Cable Lube
While I'm waiting for the old engine oil to drain, I like to grab a can of motorcycle chain wax and spray some on the inside of the chain, the kickstand and the friction points on the clutch and brake cables.

By the time I'm done with the chain wax, the oil is just dribbling out and I can re-insert the oil drain bolt.

Some bikes might require a new metal crush washer.

Be sure not to over tighten the oil drain bolt since the oil pan is made of relatively soft aluminum and other R6 owners have split the metal from over applying torque to the bolt.

Racers will want to drill and safety wire the oil drain bolt.

Yamaha-R6-Sportbike-Oil-Change-025 Yamaha-R6-Sportbike-Oil-Change-026
Old Oil Filter In Center
Apply Oil To New Filter O-Ring
To remove the old oil filter on your Yamaha R6 will require either an oil filter wrench or one of those Craftsman rubber strap wrenches.

If you don't have either of those tools, you could always gently hammer a screwdriver into the old filter at an angle through the bottom wall and out the top. It is a messy option, but it works.

Then you can use the leverage of the screwdriver to loosen the filter.

Rotate the old filter counterclockwise to remove it.

It's a messy option but it works in a pinch.

I recommend buying the K&N KN-303 oil filter since it has a convenient 17mm hex head on the end of it for easy removal.

Be sure to apply a thin layer of fresh motor oil to the rubber o-ring on the new oil filter with a clean finger.

Some people also like to pour a little bit of oil into the new filter, but it isn't mentioned in the service manual and would probably cause more of a mess.

Oil Filter Receptacle
Clutch Cover & Oil Fill Cap
Oil Fill Cap Rubber O-Ring
After the new oil filter o-ring is lubed up, you can screw it into place as tight as possible with just your hands.

If your bike is going to see any track days or racing, then you'll want to attach a safety wire to prevent the filter from vibrating loose from the constant high RPMs.

Now you can unscrew the oil fill cap which is on top of the engine's clutch cover on the right side of the bike.

Be sure to not lose the rubber o-ring that seals the oil fill cap.

Pouring Mobil 1 Into Funnel
2 Quarts of 15w50 Oil
Dip Stick ~ 2.85 Quarts of Oil
My 2000 Yamaha YZF R6 requires 2.85 U.S. quarts of new oil when replacing the oil filter.

With the plastic funnel inserted into the oil fill hole, I usually pour in 2 quarts of oil, warm up the engine, and then check the dipstick (as seen above).

Then I like to add about half a quart, repeat the checking process, and continue slowly filling until I get about 3/4 of the way up to the "Max" line on the oil dipstick's markings.

Finally, I like to put one of my clean white car towels under the bike, let it idle for about 5 minutes, and check for leaks.

Be sure to record the oil change in your bike's service records.

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