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Chrysler 200 2.4L I4 Engine Spark Plugs Replacement Guide
How to check or change the engine spark plugs in a 1st generation 2011-2014 Chrysler 200 with the 2.4L I4 motor.

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2013 Chrysler 200 2.4L I4
Pull Off Plastic Engine Cover
Engine Cover Removed
This automotive maintenance tutorial was specifically written to assist owners of the first generation (2011, 2012, 2013 & 2014) Chrysler 200 sedan equipped with the 2.4 liter "World" inline four cylinder engine in checking or changing the spark plugs.

Owners of other Chrysler Group vehicles equipped with the 2.4L I4 motor such as the Sebring, Avenger, Caliber, Journey, Jeep Compass and Patriot may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful.

The OEM spark plugs for 200 sedans with the "PZEV" (Partial Zero Emissions Vehicle) version of the 2.4L I4 engine which includes some extra emissions control systems are NGK Platinum # ZFR5AP (92041).

If you have the standard non-PZEV 2.4L I4 motor, the OEM spark plugs are NGK Nickel # ZFR5F-11.


A few other compatible spark plugs with their part numbers include the following:  NGK Platinum PZFR5F-11, NGK Iridium ZFR5FIX-11, Autolite Iridium XP5224, NGK Platinum ZFR5FGP, Denso IK16 5303, NGK Iridium IZFR5G, Denso Platinum (3246) PKJ16CR-L11), Autolite Platinum AP5224, Champion Iridium RC12WMPB4 and Pulstar Iridium be1i.

If you plan on keeping your 200 for a very long time, I'd recommend purchasing Platinum or the even longer lasting Iridium tipped spark plugs that can easily last over 100,000 miles. The OEM Nickel tipped spark plugs for the non-PZEV 2.4L engine need to be replaced every 32,000 miles or every 24 months. The owner's manual specifies a much longer replacement interval of 104,000 miles or 78 months for the OEM Platinum tipped spark plugs.

The tools needed to complete this procedure include a Torx T-30 star bit screwdriver, a 5/8" spark plug socket, a 6" extension bar, a 3/8" drive ratcheting wrench, some dielectric grease, a spark plug gap gauge, 4 new spark plugs and (optional) anti-seize lubricant. (Most spark plug manufacturers recommend that you don't use anti-seize lubricant since it can lead to over tightening of the plugs.)

Ignition Coils Exposed
1st Spark Plug Ignition Coil
Pull Back Red Lock Tab
Pull the plastic cover straight off the top of the engine and set it aside in a safe place.

If you access to compressed air or a wet/dry shop vacuum, clean off the top of the engine to help prevent from having debris fall in to the spark plug well.

Slide the red locking tab on the electrical connector away from the ignition coil to unlock it.

Red Lock Tab Released
Push Down Release Tab
Slide Off Electrical Connector
Press down on the grey release tab before sliding the power plug off the ignition coil.
Loosen Torx T30 Screw
Single T-30 Screw Removed
Pull Out Ignition Coil
Loosen the single screw holding the ignition coil in place by turning it counterclockwise with a Torx T30 star bit screwdriver.

Set the screw aside in a safe place.

Rotate the ignition coil back and forth a few times to make sure the rubber dust boot is not stuck to the top of the old spark plug.

Ignition Coil Removed
5/8" Spark Plug Socket
Loosen Old Spark Plug
Pull the ignition coil straight out of the spark plug well and set it aside in a safe place.

Attach the 5/8" spark plug socket and six inch extension bar to a 3/8" drive ratcheting wrench.

Lower the socket down in to the well and over the top of the old spark plug.

Carefully loosen the old spark plug by turning it in the counter clockwise direction.

If you can't loosen the old spark plug, do not use excessive force to avoid cracking the ceramic portion of the plug.

Spray a small amount of penetrating oil such as PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench or Kano Kroil and wait at least 15 minutes or more before attempting to loosen it again. If you don't have any penetrating oil, try spraying some WD-40 or warm up the engine for a few minutes to help expand the metal engine block.


Spin Out Counterclockwise
Lift Out Old Spark Plug
Once the spark plug is loose, detach the ratcheting wrench and spin it out by hand using the extension bar.

Lift the old plug out of the well and pull it out of the spark plug socket.

If the rubber insert comes out of the spark plug socket, pull it off the end of the old spark plug and re-insert it in to the socket.

Empty Spark Plug Well
Lower In New Platinum Plug
Spin In By Hand Clockwise
Inspect the old spark plug.

If the electrode end of the old spark plug looks ashy white, the plugs may have been exposed to high temperatures such as overheating or they are the incorrect heat range for your driving conditions or environment.

On the other hand, if the old spark plugs are dark grey or covered in black soot, the engine may be burning oil and should be checked by a professional mechanic.

I'd recommend buying the NGK 2477 ZFR5FIX-11 iridium spark plugs since they have excellent reviews on Amazon and they can last up to 100,000 miles.

An optional step is to apply a tiny amount of anti-seize lubricant to the upper metal threads of the new spark plug. This will make the plugs easier to take out if they are not changed again for another 32K to 104K miles. Avoid getting any of the anti-seize on the electrode tip at the bottom of the new spark plug. Most spark plug manufacturers recommend that you not use anti-seize grease since it can lead to over tightening.

If you do apply anti-seize to the threads of the new spark plug, less force will be necessary to tighten them.

Check the gap on the new spark plug with the gap gauge. The NGK ZFR5AP Platinum tipped spark plugs should be pre-gapped at the factory to .031". The NGK Nickel tipped ZFR5F-11 spark plug should be gapped to .043". If the gap is not correct, the new plug may have been dropped, damaged in shipment or defective and it should be exchanged for a new one.

Push the new spark plug in to the socket and gently lower it down in to the well. Your spark plug socket should have a rubber insert or a strong magnet to hold the plug securely in place.

Spin in the new plug in the clockwise direction by hand using the extension bar until it makes contact with the engine block.

Tighten New Plug Clockwise
Apply Dielectric Grease
Lower In Ignition Coil
Attach the ratcheting wrench to the 6" extension bar and tighten the spark plug in the clockwise direction to just barely past the point when you feel the crush washer collapse.

Do not over tighten the spark plugs to prevent from cracking the ceramic body or stripping the aluminum threads.

Double check that the new spark plug is tight before moving on to the next steps.

Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the opening of the rubber dust boot at the bottom of the ignition coil. The dielectric grease will help keep out moisture and create a better electrical contact.

Lower the ignition coil down in to the well and over the new spark plug.

Re-Insert Single Screw
Tighten Torx T30 Clockwise
Push On Power Plug
Rotate the ignition coil back and forth a few times to help spread the dielectric grease.

The dielectric grease will help keep out any moisture and create a better electrical contact.

Re-insert the Torx T-30 screw in to the ignition coil and tighten it in the clockwise direction until it is snug.

Try to avoid over tightening the screw to prevent from cracking the plastic ignition coil.

Push the power plug straight on to the side of the ignition coil until it clicks securely in to place.

Slide In Red Lock Tab
Spark Plug Replaced
Replace Engine Cover
Slide the red lock tab in towards the ignition coil to secure the electrical connector.

Line up the friction fasteners on the back of the plastic cover with the pegs on the top of the engine.

Push the engine cover down in to place.

Start up the engine and listen for any strange sounds that may indicate a problem such as a loose electrical connector or a defective spark plug.

Be sure to record the spark plug replacement in your vehicle's service records.

For more, check out my other Chrysler 200 DIY Maintenance & Repair Guides.

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