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Chrysler 200 Rear Disc Brake Pads Replacement Guide
How to change the rear disc brake pads on a 1st generation 2011 to 2014 Chrysler 200 with photo illustrated steps.

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2013 Chrysler 200 Rear Wheel
Slightly Loosen Lug Nuts
Raise Rear of Vehicle
This automotive maintenance tutorial was specifically written to assist owners of the updated (2011, 2012, 2013 and 2014) Chrysler 200 sedan in replacing the rear disc brake pads.

Owners of other Chrysler Group vehicles with similar rear brake hardware such as the Avenger, Dart, Challenger, Durango, Charger, Grand Caravan, 300, RAM C/V Tradesman, Jeep Patriot, Compass and Cherokee may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful.

The tools needed to complete this procedure include a floor jack, two jack stands, a lug nut wrench, a 14mm socket with  a 3/8" drive ratcheting wrench, a "C" or "F" clamp and a packet of brake parts lubricant grease.

A few compatible sets of aftermarket rear brake pads with their part numbers include the following: Wagner ThermoQuiet PD1037, ACDelco 14D868CH, Wagner QuickStop ZD1037, Dura International BP1037MS, ProAct ACT1037 and Wearever # PNAD1037.


Please verify the correct replacement part numbers for your Chrysler 200 by using the Amazon Part Finder website. The correct part numbers may vary depending on the model year, trim level and rear rotor size (302mm or 262mm).
Pull Off Hub Cap & Wheel
Caliper, Bracket & Rotor
Rear Disc Brake Caliper
The first few steps are to park the vehicle on a level surface, make sure that the emergency/parking brake is not engaged and chock the front wheels to prevent the car from moving.

Then slightly loosen the 5 lug nuts by turning them in the counterclockwise direction with the tire iron.

Raise the rear of the vehicle with the floor jack and securely support it with two jack stands.

I prefer to work on one side of the car at a time to keep three wheels on the ground for extra safety.

Spin off the five lug nuts and set them aside in a safe place. Pull off the plastic wheel cover (A.K.A. hub cap).

Loosen Lower 14mm Bolt
Remove Bolt / Slider Pin
Swing Caliper Up
Pull off the rear wheel to expose the rear brake caliper, bracket, rotor and suspension.

The caliper is held in place to the bracket by two bolts on the back side of the caliper facing towards the center of the vehicle.

Loosen the lower caliper bolt by turning it in the clockwise direction (as seen from the outside of the vehicle) with the 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratcheting wrench.

Spin out the lower caliper bolt and combination caliper slider pin.

The 14mm socket won't fit over the upper caliper bolt since it is obstructed by the brake fluid line.

Pull Out Upper Slider Pin
Remove Old Outer Pad
Old Outer Pad Removed
If you have a 14mm wrench, loosen the upper caliper bolt in the clockwise direction (as seen from the outside of the vehicle).

Another method is to just swing the caliper up until the upper caliper bolt and slider pin can be pulled out of the bracket.

Carefully rest the caliper on the suspension or suspend it from the spring with a bungee cord or a piece of rope.

Try to avoid bending or kinking the rubber brake fluid line.

Pull the old outer pad out of the caliper. You may need to pry back the metal clips on the back side of the old pad with a flathead screwdriver.

Wear Bar - Bottom Inner Pad
Attach "C" Clamp To Caliper
Twist Off Brake Fluid Cap
Remove the old inner brake pad from the caliper bracket.

Make a note of where the wear indicator or "squeal" bar is situated on the old brake pads.

On this 2013 Chrysler 200, the wear bar was located at the bottom of the inner brake pad.

I'd recommend buying the Wagner ThermoQuiet PD1037 brake pads since they have great reviews on Amazon. I also like how they don't require any shims or backing plates due to the built in insulators.

In order for the caliper to fit over the thicker new brake pads, the piston will need be compressed backwards.

Attach the "C" or "F" clamp to the caliper using the back of an old brake pad to evenly distribute the pressure across the piston.

Move to the right rear area of the engine bay and twist off the yellow plastic brake fluid reservoir cap in the counterclockwise direction.

Removing the reservoir cap will allow the brake fluid to more easily travel backwards through the brake lines when you compress back the caliper piston.


Slowly Compress Piston
Replace Brake Fluid Cap
Install New Outer Pad
Slowly turn the "F" clamp's handle to compress back the piston while repeatedly checking the brake fluid level in the reservoir to prevent it from overflowing.

Clean up any spilled brake fluid immediately since it can easily damage painted surfaces.

Try to avoid pinching or otherwise damaging the rubber dust boot surrounding the piston.

Replace the brake fluid reservoir cap as soon as possible since brake fluid is hygroscopic (readily absorbs moisture from the air).

Thoroughly clean off the brake rotor, caliper bracket, brake caliper assembly and the lug nut studs with brake parts cleaner spray. Do not use compressed air or blow with your mouth to clean off the brake parts since breathing in brake dust can be harmful to your health. Brake pad dust may be carcinogenic (causes cancer) if inhaled.

If your 200 previously exhibited shuddering, pulsating, or vibrations in the rear end during braking, you may need to have your rotors "turned" (resurfaced) or just replace them with brand new rotors. If this is the car's first rear brake job and the rotors appear to be in good condition, you should be able to just change the pads with great results.

To remove the existing rotors and install new ones, remove the two bolts on the rear of the caliper bracket that attach it to the steering knuckle. Then loosen the old rotor with a rubber mallet, pull it off, and slide the new one in its place.

Apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease to any area where there is metal to metal contact such as the outer lip of the caliper piston. Do not apply brake parts lubricant to the friction surface of the new pads or to the face of the rotor.

New Outer Pad In Caliper
Wear Bar - Bottom New Inner Pad
Push Pad Against Rotor
Install the new outer brake pad in to the caliper. You may need to pull back the metal spring clips to get it to slide in.

Install the new inner brake pad in to the bracket with the wear bar situated at the bottom. Push the new inner pad flush against the rotor.

Re-Insert Upper Slider Pin
Re-Insert Lower Caliper Bolt
Tighten Counterclockwise

Apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease to the smooth parts of each of the two combination caliper bolts / caliper slider pins. Do not apply any grease to the threads on the caliper bolts.

Lower the caliper down in to the bracket. If you didn't remove the upper caliper bolt, re-insert the upper slider pin and rotate the caliper down over the rotor.

Tighten Upper 14mm Bolt
Rubber Valve Cap
Brake Fluid Bleeder Valve
Re-insert the lower caliper bolt / slider pin and spin it in a few turns by hand to prevent it from becoming cross threaded.

Tighten the two caliper bolts in the counterclockwise direction (as seen from the outside of the car) with the 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratcheting wrench to just past hand tight or about 32 ft-lbs of torque.

Double check that both caliper bolts are tight before moving on to the next steps.

If your brake pedal previously felt soft or spongy, the brake fluid may be contaminated with water or the brake lines may contain some air bubbles.

It would be best to bleed the brake lines at this time in order to flush out the old fluid and replace it with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid. For more on this topic, check out my Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With An Assistant DIY Guide or alternatively the Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With A Power Bleeder Guide.

The brake fluid bleeder valve is located underneath a rubber cap on the back side of the caliper just below the upper caliper bolt.

Replace Rear Wheel
Line Up Plastic Wheel Cover
Spin On 5 Lug Nuts
Replace the rear wheel and push on the plastic hub cap with the cut out section for the tire valve situated in the correct location.

Spin on the 5 lug nuts in the clockwise direction by hand to prevent from becoming cross threaded.

Slightly tighten the lug nuts in a "criss cross" or "star" pattern with the lug nut wrench.

Slightly Tighten Lug Nuts
Lower Car From Stands
Torque To 100 ft-lbs
Lower the car from the jack stands using the floor jack until the rear tire holds enough weight to keep it from moving.

Continue progressively tightening the 5 lug nuts in a "criss cross" or "star" pattern to about 1/4 to 1/3 turn past hand tight or about 100 ft-lbs of torque. It would be best to use a torque wrench or an impact wrench with a 100 ft-lbs torque stick to properly tighten the lug nuts.

Sit in the driver's seat of the vehicle and firmly press down the brake pedal a few times to restore the brake line pressure.

Check the brake fluid in the reservoir and verify that it is at the proper level. If it is low, pour in some fresh DOT 3 fluid.

To break in your new brake pads, just drive normally for the first few hundred miles while trying to avoid any hard or "panic" stops which may glaze over the new pads and cause them to be noisy and not perform as well.

It's also a good idea to regularly check your driveway for drops of brake fluid which may indicate a leak, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir, and verify that the lug nuts are still tight.

For more, check out my other Chrysler 200 DIY Maintenance & Repair Guides.

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