Honda CR-V
Engine Spark Plugs Replacement Guide
How to check or change the engine spark
plugs in a 3rd generation 2007 to 2011 Honda CR-V with the K24Z 2.4L I4 motor.
2011 CR-V 2.4L I4 |
Black Plastic Engine Cover |
Loosen 10mm Bolt |
This
automotive maintenance tutorial was specifically written to assist owners of the
third generation (2007, 2008, 2009, 2010 & 2011) Honda CR-V in
checking or changing the engine spark plugs in the K24Z 2.4 liter
inline four cylinder motor. Owners of other Honda or Acura vehicles such as the Pilot, Insight, CR-Z, Accord, Civic, Fit, Crosstour, Odyssey, Ridgeline, TSX, ILX, TLX, TL, RLX, RDX and MDX may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful. A few compatible replacement spark plugs for the 2007, 2008 & 2009 CR-V with their part numbers are as follows: NGK 6994 (IZFR6K11), Bosch 4508, Denso # 5304, and Autolite XP5224. Replacement spark plugs for the 2010 & 2011 CR-V include the NGK Iridium 5787 (ILZKR7B-11S) (OEM part), Denso 3461, Champion RER8ZWYCB4 (9407) and Bosch # 9619. The tools needed to complete this procedure include a 10mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet, a 5/8" spark plug socket, a 6" extension bar and a 3/8" drive ratchet. |
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Front Left 10mm Bolt |
Loosen Counterclockwise |
Remove 4th 10mm Bolt |
The first two steps
are to pop open the hood and then locate the rectangular black plastic cover
on the top of the engine. Loosen the four bolts that hold the plastic engine cover in place by turning them counterclockwise with the 10mm socket and ratcheting wrench. |
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Spin Out Bolts |
Four 10mm Bolts Removed |
Lift Off Plastic Engine Cover |
Spin out the four
bolts and set them aside in a safe place. Lift the plastic cover straight off the engine and set it aside with the bolts. |
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Spark Plug Ignition Coils |
Clean Off Top of Engine |
Press Release Tab |
Once the cover has
been removed, you'll be able to access the four spark plug ignition coils. If you have access to compressed air or a wet/dry shop vacuum, thoroughly clean off the top of the engine to help prevent from having debris fall down in to the spark plug well. Press down the release tab on the first ignition coil's electrical connector and slide the plug straight off. To further reduce the risk of having debris fall down in to a cylinder or getting dust in to the electrical connectors, I'd recommend only checking or changing one spark plug a time. |
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Pull Off Electrical Connector |
Loosen 10mm Bolt |
Remove 10mm Bolt |
Then loosen the
single bolt that holds the ignition coil in place by turning it
counterclockwise with the 10mm socket and ratcheting wrench. Set the 10mm bolt aside in a safe place. |
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Rotate Ignition Coil |
Lift Out Ignition Coil |
Spark Plug In Well |
Gently rotate the
ignition coil back and forth a few times to make sure the rubber dust boot
is not stuck to the tip of the old spark plug. Lift the ignition coil straight out of the spark plug well and set it aside in a safe place. |
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5/8" Spark Plug Socket |
Loosen Counterclockwise |
Spin Out Old Spark Plug |
Attach the
5/8"
spark plug socket to a 6 inch extension bar and the 3/8" drive ratcheting
wrench. Your spark plug socket should have a rubber insert or a strong magnet to securely hold the spark plug in place. Carefully lower the socket down over the old spark plug and loosen it in the counterclockwise direction. If you can't loosen the old spark plug, do not use excessive force to avoid cracking the ceramic portion of the plug. Spray a small amount of penetrating oil such as PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench or Kano Kroil and wait at least 15 minutes or more before attempting to loosen it again. If you don't have any penetrating oil, try spraying some WD-40 or warm up the engine for a few minutes to help expand the metal engine block. Once the old spark plug is loose, detach the ratcheting wrench and spin it out the rest of the way by hand using the extension bar. |
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Lift Out Old Spark Plug |
NGK Iridium # ILZKR7B-11S |
Lower In New Spark Plug |
Lift the old spark
plug out of the well and remove it from the socket. If the rubber insert from the socket is still attached to the spark plug, pull it off and push it back in to the socket. Inspect the electrode tip of the old spark plug.If the end of the old spark plug looks ashy white, the plugs may have been exposed to high temperatures due to engine overheating or they are the incorrect heat range for your driving conditions or environment. If the old spark plugs are dark grey or covered in black soot, the engine may be burning oil and should be checked by a professional mechanic. I recommend buying the Honda OEM spark plugs, which are the NGK Iridium 5787, since they have excellent reviews on Amazon. An optional step is to apply a tiny amount of anti-seize lubricant to the upper metal threads of the new spark plug. This will make the plugs easier to take out if they are not changed again for another 100k miles. Do not get any of the anti-seize on the electrode tip at the bottom of the new spark plug. Most spark plug manufacturers recommend against using anti-seize grease since it can lead to over tightening. If you do apply anti-seize to the threads of the new spark plug, less force will be necessary to properly tighten them. |
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Spin In By Hand |
Tighten Clockwise |
Apply Dielectric Grease |
If you have a spark
plug gap gauge, check the gap on the new spark plug.
For most of the compatible replacement spark plugs, the correct gap is .044", but please check the manufacturer's specification for the plugs you purchased. If the gap on the new plug is not correct, it may have been dropped or damaged in shipping and should be exchanged for a new one. Push the new spark firmly plug in to the socket. Carefully lower the new spark plug attached to the socket and the 6" extension bar down in to the well. Try to avoid hitting the electrode tip. Spin in the new plug by hand until it makes contact with the cylinder head. Attach the 3/8" drive ratchet to the extension bar and very carefully tighten the new plug to just barely past the point when you feel the new crush washer collapse. That should be a small fraction of a turn past when the plug could not be tightened any more with just your fingers spinning the extension bar. Do not over tighten the spark plugs to prevent from cracking the ceramic body or stripping the aluminum threads. If you applied anti-seize lubricant grease to the threads of the new spark plug, less force will be necessary to properly tighten the plug. Double check that the new spark plug is tight before moving on to the next steps. |
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Lower In Ignition Coil |
Rotate Back & Forth |
Spin In 10mm Bolt |
To help seal out
any moisture or dust, apply a small amount of
dielectric grease to the
opening in the rubber dust boot on the bottom of the ignition coil. Lower the ignition coil down in to the well on to the new spark plug. Spin in the ignition coil bolt by hand a few turns to prevent it from becoming cross threaded. |
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Tighten Clockwise |
Push On Power Plug |
Electrical Connector Replaced |
Tighten the bolt in
the clockwise direction with the 10mm socket and ratcheting wrench until it
is snug. Do not over tighten the bolt to prevent from cracking the plastic ignition coil housing. Push the electrical connector straight on to the ignition coil until it clicks securely in to place. |
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Lower Plastic Engine Cover |
Spin In 10mm Bolts |
Tighten 10mm Bolts |
Lower the plastic cover over the top of the engine and spin in the four bolts by hand a few turns to prevent them from becoming cross threaded. | ||
Tighten Clockwise |
New Spark Plugs Installed |
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Tighten the four
bolts in the clockwise direction with the 10mm socket and ratchet
until they are snug. Avoid over tightening the bolts to prevent from cracking the plastic engine cover. Start the engine and listen for any strange sounds that may indicate a faulty ignition coil or loose electrical connector. Be sure to record the spark plug change in your vehicle's service records. For more,
check out my other
Honda CR-V Repair & Maintenance Guides. |
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