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Ford Edge Front Brake Pads Replacement Guide
How to replace the front brake pads on a 2007, 2008, 2009 or 2010 Ford Edge CUV with picture illustrated instructions.

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Please note, I am not a professional automotive mechanic. If you have any doubts, please do not proceed and consult with your local repair shop or Ford dealership. I assume no responsibility for damage to your property, persons or pets.
Ford Edge Front Wheel
Arrow - Front Jack Point
Loosen Lug Nuts
This automotive "how-to" guide was specifically written to assist owners of the first generation (2007, 2008, 2009, 2010 and possibly also the updated 2011, 2012, 2013 & 2014) Ford Edge CUV in replacing the front brake pads.

Owners of other Ford, Lincoln or Mercury vehicles such as the Taurus, Fiesta, Fusion, Focus, Mustang, Flex, Ranger, F-150, Escape, Explorer, Expedition, MKZ, MKX, MKS, MKT, Navigator, Milan, Mariner, Mountaineer, Grand Marquis & Town Car may also find this guide to be helpful.

New front brake pads for the Ford Edge range in price from about $25 for economy semi-metallic or organic pads to over $70 for performance pads. I've always had good luck with the Wagner ThermoQuiet QC1258A brake pads.

A few other compatible replacement brake pads with their part numbers are as follows: Bosch BP1258, Motorcraft BR1258B,

The tools needed to complete this procedure include a lug nut wrench, a floor jack, a 17mm socket/wrench, and a "C" or "F" clamp.

Jack Up Passenger Side
Remove Lug Nuts
5 Lug Nuts Removed
I'd also recommend using jack stands to support the vehicle for extra safety.

Optional items include a breaker bar or rubber mallet for loosening a stubborn caliper bolt, CRC Disc Brake Quiet Gel, brake parts cleaner spray, high pressure moly grease for the caliper pin, blue medium strength Permatex Threadlocker for the caliper bolts, and twine or rope to support the brake caliper.

Pull Off Front Wheel
Front Caliper & Rotor
Front Brake Caliper
The first step is to slightly loosen the 5 lug nuts on the front wheel before raising the vehicle off the ground with a floor jack.

If you have jack stands, slide them under the side of the vehicle for extra safety.

Then spin off the lug nuts, remove the wheel and roll it out of the way. Use wheel chocks and engage the emergency brake to prevent the vehicle from moving.

Top & Bottom Caliper Bolts
Loosen 17mm Lower Bolt
Rubber Mallet
To access the front brake pads, remove the lower of the two caliper bolts using a 17mm socket or wrench.

I had trouble breaking the Threadlocker on the lower caliper bolt so I had to whack the socket wrench with a rubber mallet a few times.

17mm Caliper Bolt/Pin
Swing Caliper Upwards
Tie Up Caliper To Shock
Once the lower caliper bolt is removed, swing the caliper body upwards and off the brake pads. Support the brake caliper with some twine or rope to prevent it from crashing down on your fingers or the rotor.
Wiggle Out Brake Pads
Outer Pad Removed
Brake Fluid Reservoir

To remove the old brake pads, wiggle them off the face of the rotor and out of the anti rattle clips located at the top and bottom.

I recommend buying either the Wagner ThermoQuiet QC1258A pads or the Ford OEM Motorcraft BR1258B pads that have great reviews on Amazon.

If your new brake pads came with replacement anti-rattle clips you can remove the olds ones. If your new pads didn't come with new anti-rattle clips, you can re-use the original ones if they are still in good shape.

Remove Cap
"F" Clamp
Compress Caliper Piston

Next, remove the cap on the brake fluid reservoir in the engine bay.

This allows the brake fluid to flow freely back into the reservoir when you compress the brake caliper pistons.

Use the "C" or "F" clamp and the back of one of the old brake pads to slowly compress the two pistons on the caliper.

Don't compress the pistons any more than necessary to accommodate the larger size of the new pads.

The furthest back they should be compressed is until they lie flush with the rubber dust boots around them.

Periodically check the level of the brake fluid in the reservoir to make sure that it doesn't overflow.

Remove any excess brake fluid with a turkey baster, spray pump from a household cleaner bottle, or just soak some up with a paper towel.

Brake Parts Cleaner
CRC Disc Brake Quiet Gel
Install New Brake Pads
Before installing the new pads, clean off the rotor and caliper body with brake parts cleaner spray.

If your vehicle is prone to brake noise, you may want to apply a product such as the CRC Disc Brake Quiet gel to the rear of the pads where they come in contact with the caliper.

Do not apply anything to the friction material side of the new pads.

Anti-Rattle Clips
Push Pad Against Rotor
Cut Twine
Remove the wear indicator or "squeal" bar from the old interior brake pad and attach it to the new brake pad.

Then carefully insert the new brake pads in between the anti-rattle clips and push them flush against the brake rotor.

If you previously felt any vibration or shuddering while braking, it's recommended that you have the vehicle's brake rotors removed and "turned" to create a smooth surface or just replace them altogether with brand new rotors.

Lower Caliper Over Pads
Line Up Rubber Dust Boot
Caliper Pin Dust Boot
With the new pads in place, cut the twine supporting the caliper and carefully lower it down over the pads.

Check that the lower caliper bolt's rubber dust boot is lined up with the bolt hole on the caliper.

If the caliper won't fit over the thicker new pads, compress the caliper pistons some more with the "C" clamp.

Grease Caliper Bolt
Threadlocker On Bolt
Tighten Lower Caliper Bolt
The smooth end of the caliper bolt or the caliper "pin" needs to slide freely inside the caliper.

Lubricate it with some high pressure moly brake caliper grease.

An optional step is to apply a tiny bit of blue "medium" Permatex Threadlocker to the threads on the bolt to keep it from vibrating out.

Then insert the bolt into the caliper and tighten it down with the 17mm socket and ratcheting wrench. Torque the caliper bolt to the torque setting specified in the service manual for your vehicle.

Bleeder Valve Cap
Brake Fluid Bleeder Valve
Brake Job Complete
If your vehicle's brake pedal feels mushy or the brakes exhibit "fading" (loss of braking ability), it would be advisable to "bleed" the brake lines at this time to replace the old contaminated brake fluid with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid.

For more on that topic, check out my Brake Line Fluid Bleeding Guide.

Replace Wheel & Lug Nuts
Lower Car Jack
Torque Down Lug Nuts
To finish the job, reattach the wheel and spin on the lug nuts by hand.

Then lower the vehicle off the jack and torque down the five lug nuts to about 100 ft-lbs of torque in a criss cross or "star" pattern.

It would be best to use a torque wrench to properly tighten the lug nuts.

Check the level again in the brake fluid reservoir, add or remove fluid until it reaches the "MAX" cold line, and replace the brake fluid reservoir cap. Pump the brake pedal a few times to restore brake line pressure.

To break-in the new brake pads, just drive around normally for a few hundred miles and try to avoid any hard or "panic" stops.

For more of my related automotive how-to guides, click on the following links: Ford Edge Cabin Air Filter Guide, Ford Edge Engine Oil Change Guide, Ford Edge Rear Brake Pads Replacement Guide, Ford Edge Headlight Bulbs Replacement Guide, Ford Edge Tail Light Bulbs Replacement Guide, Ford Edge Door Speaker Replacement Guide, Ford Edge Power Window Motor Replacement Guide, Ford Edge Key Fob Battery Replacement Guide, Ford Edge Rear Wiper Blade Replacement Guide, Ford Edge Overhead Map Light Bulbs Replacement Guide, Ford Edge Vanity Mirror Light Bulb Replacement Guide, Ford Edge Rear Dome Light Bulbs Replacement Guide, Ford Edge Fog Light Bulb Replacement Guide, Ford Edge Cargo Area Light Bulb Replacement Guide, and Ford Edge License Plate Light Bulbs Replacement Guide.

Check out all of my 2007-2010 Ford Edge DIY Repair & Maintenance Guides.

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